Tibetan Treks - Tibet - page 460

puted to talk) inside and a conch shell inlaid with silver. Beside the altar there's a copper
pot and elephant tusks, the latter a leftover from when Bhutan exerted religious control
over the monasteries around Kailash.
From the Chuku bridge there are alternative trails along the east and west banks of the
river. Either way it's about three hours to Dira-puk Monastery. The trail along the eastern
bank is the regular pilgrim route, but on the western trail there are some fine grassy camp
sites at Damding Donkhang (4890m), about an hour before the monastery. The west or
ruby face of Mt Kailash makes a dramatic backdrop to this camp site and in the early
morning Tibetan pilgrims can be seen striding past on the other side of the river, already
well into their one-day circuit.
Be aware, though, that walking on the western side may require crossing the side-
streams that flow into the Lha-chu. Even in early summer these can be waist high. Wear
socks or rubber sandals when you cross; it helps on the slippery rocks.
Take your time between Chuku Monastery and Dira-puk Monastery as this stretch has
some of the best scenery of the entire kora. High sedimentary faces, wonderfully puckered
and dented, and chiselled into shapes that seem alive, hem you in on both sides. When the
weather is warmer there's even the occasional ribbon of water tumbling down the slopes
from hundreds of metres high.
Many of the formations along the way have mythical connections, with a number of
them related to Tibet's legendary hero Gesar of Ling - but you're unlikely to find them
without a guide. Along the eastern route, however, you will have no problem finding the
second prostration point (N 31°04.430ʹ, E 081°16.942ʹ), with its prayer flags and clear
view of the east side of Mt Kailash. Around 30 minutes later, just past a tea tent selling the
usual drinks and snacks, look for the second Buddha footprint, and a carving (N
31°05.126ʹ, E 081°17.264ʹ) of the god Tamdrin, a wrathful horse-headed deity, on a black
stone smeared with aeons of yak butter.
From the rock, the trail starts to climb and heads northeast towards Dira-puk Monastery.
Cross the bridge to head directly to the monastery or continue straight ahead for the main
trail. Eventually you'll spot a couple of buildings. To the right is the old Indian guest-
house (dm ¥60-70) , a series of simple stone dormitory rooms with a cosy tented teahouse
and several shops. Below and to the left is the huge new Shishapangma Guesthouse (,
Xīxiàbāngmǎ Bīnguǎn per bed ¥60-70) , a two-storey concrete guesthouse boasting real beds
and real toilets. The third and quietest option is a bed in the Monastery Guesthouse (dm
¥60-70) , though food here is limited to instant noodles.