Tibetan Treks - Tibet - page 455

uphill walking. At one time this trail was well maintained and formed a main trade link
between Shalu and Sakya Monasteries, but it has fallen into disrepair.
Eventually, the white cairns along the summit ridge come into focus. The pass is the ob-
vious notch in the ridge line. From the Char-la (4550m; N 29°07.000ʹ, E 088°49.850ʹ),
mountain ranges stretch to the west across the horizon and Ngor Monastery is visible dir-
ectly below. Ngor is a 45-minute steep descent from the pass. The route from the Char-la
descends the south side of a ravine that forms below it. Several trails cross the stream that
flows from the pass and provide access to Ngor, but the first trail is the quickest route - it
climbs the right side of the ravine and traverses directly to the monastery. Consider camp-
ing near Ngor or staying in the monastery's little guesthouse and save the last five hours of
walking for the next day, when you're rested.
Sakya master Ngorchen Kunga Sangpo founded Ngor Monastery in 1429, giving rise
to the Ngorpa suborder, a distinctive school of Buddhist thought. Once an important centre
of learning, Ngor used to boast four monastic estates and 18 residential units inhabited by
about 340 monks. Only a portion of the monastery has been rebuilt, but what has is pleas-
ing to behold. The largest structure is the assembly hall, called the Gonshung. The outer
walls of its gallery are painted in vertical red, white and blue stripes, a characteristic decor-
ative technique used by the Sakya order. The three colours represent the Rigsum Gonpo,
the three most important bodhisattvas. The present head of Ngor, Luding Khenpo, resides
in northern India.
Most trekkers end their walk at Ngor. A new improved road now connects Ngor to the
Nartang Monastery 19km away. Once reaching the Lhatse-Shigatse Hwy just east of the
4914 road marker head in the direction of Shigatse. Nartang Monastery and its huge peri-
meter walls are just 3km away.
Mt Kailash Kora
The age-old path around Mt Kailash is one of the world's great pilgrimage routes and
completely encircles Asia's holiest mountain. With a 5630m pass to conquer, this kora is a
test of both the mind and the spirit.
There's some gorgeous mountain scenery along this trek, including close-ups of the
majestic pyramidal Mt Kailash, but just as rewarding is the chance to see and meet your
fellow pilgrims, many of whom have travelled hundreds of kilometres on foot to get here.