Tibetan Treks - Tibet - page 449

As you now head westwards, along the north side of the river, there are superb views of
the surrounding mountains. In the north is Brize, which is a heavily glaciated peak enclos-
ing the south side of the Yangpachen Valley, and towards the west is a distinctive pinnacle
named Tarze. Brize, the 'female-yak herder', and Tarze, the 'horse keeper', are just two of
many topographical features in a mythical society ruled by the great mountain god Nyen-
chen Tanglha. These two mountains make convenient landmarks for trekkers further along
the route as you go against the grain by heading north over a series of drainage systems
that run from east to west.
Around 40 minutes after the big bend the trail hits Bartso (4950m; N 29°48.962ʹ, E
090°28.091ʹ). If you have not already crossed back to the right side of the valley there is a
concrete footbridge just below this settlement. This drokpa village is now devoid of per-
manent dwellings but is still used as a summer camp. There are decent places to camp in
the vicinity. The hills around Bartso are still dotted with juniper. In the 1960s and '70s
huge amounts of this valuable bush were extracted from the region and trucked to Lhasa to
feed the hearths of the new provincial city.
Stage 3: Bartso to Dorje Ling Nunnery
4-5 hours / 15km / 150m ascent/150m descent
Look northwest from Bartso to the far end of the valley. A clearly visible trail winds up
from the valley to the top of the ridge. Make for this trail, 25 minutes' walk over marshy
ground from Bartso, following the fence line. It's another half-hour to the summit of the
ridge. A trail leads up to a saddle north of the valley for fine views of Nyenchen Tanglha.
However, the more straightforward main path continues down into a gully heading west-
ward. It's about 40 minutes to the village of Tajung (4660m; N 29°50.286ʹ, E
090°25.116ʹ), a walk of around 90 minutes from Bartso. Tajung is a decent alternative spot
to end the second stage, though the insatiably curious villagers can be demanding of your
time and supplies.
Stay to the left of the 14 whitewashed houses and ford the stream below the village.
Bear northeast-wards into the parting in the ridge and, after a few minutes, cross a low
saddle. Continue going northeast in the direction of Brize until a large dip appears in the
ridgeline to the west, 40 minutes from Tajung. Reaching a dirt road going towards Brize
head cross-country between the ridgeline and a large hill to the right, using a cairn
(4630m; N 29°51.353ʹ, E 090°25.740ʹ) on the saddle as your marker. If you have gained