Tibetan Treks - Tibet - page 444

built stone houses. A big tributary stream, entering from the northwest, joins the Samye
Valley here. The old trade route from Lhasa to Samye via the Gokar-la follows this valley.
A 30-minute walk past Nyango is the village of Wango and, an hour beyond here, the
hamlet of Pisha . From the lower end of Pisha, a hill can be seen in the middle of the
mouth of the Samye Valley. This is Hepo Ri , one of Tibet's most sacred mountains. The
entire lower Samye Valley - a tapestry of fields, woods and villages - can be seen from
Pisha. Pisha is the last place where water can be conveniently drawn from the river. From
here on, the trail only intersects irrigation ditches.
Around 15 minutes past Pisha a ridge spur called Dragmar meets the trail. On the ridge
is the partially rebuilt palace where King Trisong Detsen is said to have been born.
Formerly a lavish temple, it now stands forlorn. Below, just off the road, is a small red-
and-white temple (3687m; N 29°22.802ʹ, E 091°30.399ʹ), which is often locked and en-
shrines the stump of an ancient tree. Legend has it that a red-and-white sandalwood tree
grew here, nourished by the buried placenta of Trisong Detsen. During the Cultural Re-
volution the tree was chopped down.
A further 20 minutes down the trail is Sangbu village, from where there are good views
of the golden spires of Samye. The route follows the road direct to Samye along the mar-
gin of woods and desert: it takes about one hour. The closer you get to Samye the hotter
the valley can become; in May and June it can be fiery hot. You finally enter the perimeter
wall of Samye (3630m), about three hours from Nyango.
Tsurphu to Yangpachen
Beginning at Tsurphu Monastery, this rugged walk crosses several high valleys before
emerging into the broad and windswept Yangpachen Valley. Combining alpine tundra and
sweeping mountain panoramas with visits to monasteries, this trek nicely balances cultural
and wilderness activities.
The best time for this walk is from mid-April to mid-October. Summer can be rainy but
be prepared for snow at any time. As you will be in nomad country, beware of vicious
dogs, some of which take a sadistic pride in chasing hapless foreigners. Fuel and food are
not available, so come prepared. There are few permanent settlements along the way and
the inhabitants are often away from home. Your only option on this trek is to be fully self-
sufficient.