Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Unlike the TAR, western Sìchuān is permit-free, meaning foreign travellers can explore
to their heart's content. May and June are the prime times for a visit. For details, including
weather, and specific sleeping and eating options along the route, see Lonely Planet's
Ch-
ina
guidebook.
Kanding
Kanding (Kāngdìng; Dardo) is the gateway into Sìchuān's Tibetan world, and has long
been a trade centre between Tibetans and Han Chinese. The 'do' of Kāngdìng's Tibetan
name, Dardo, means 'river confluence', and aptly this lively town is nestled in a deep river
valley with distant snow-capped mountains, including the imperious Gònggā Shān
(Minyak Gangkar in Tibetan; 7556m). Today, although there is a large Tibetan population,
the city feels more Chinese, but you can still find elements of Tibetan culture in the food,
the dress and, to a lesser extent, in the architecture.
The Northern Route (Hwy 317)
It may have only been around since 1954, but the Sìchuān-Tibet Hwy has a well-deserved
reputation for being one of the highest, roughest, most dangerous and most beautiful roads
in the world. Around 70km west of Kāngdìng it splits, and one branch becomes the North-
ern Route (Hwy 317).
The Northern Route is around 300km longer and generally less travelled than the South-
ern. It runs through 'big sky' country, with wide-open grasslands, soaring snow-topped
mountains, and traditional Tibetan communities with their remote monasteries and
motorcycle-riding yak herders. The road also crosses Tro-la (5050m), the highest pass this
side of Lhasa, before descending towards the Tibet border.
You must come prepared with warm clothing; even in midsummer, it can be very cold at
higher elevations once the sun goes down.
The first stop along this route is
Tǎgōng
(Lhagong; elevation 3750m), a small Tibetan
village with beautiful surrounding grasslands. As well as an important monastery and a
fascinating nearby nunnery to visit, there's also horse trekking (and a horse festival in
July) and hiking. Travellers have given rave reviews to the Tibetan homestays here.
