Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Set on a slope above the Parlung Tsangpo, across from Bakha Gompa, this family-run
guesthouse is one of the most scenically placed in all Kham. In the handsome pine main
lodge you'll find cosy wood-panelled rooms (those on the second floor are best) with large
bathrooms, Tibetan details, and outstanding views from the balcony.
Room walls are a bit thin so you will hear every noise from your neighbours. For-
tunately, there's plenty of land to wander about for privacy. Less fortunate is that the fam-
ily hasn't decided whether they are running an intimate guesthouse or a small resort.
Chinese tour groups and cultural entertainment, such as kitschy campfire dances and op-
portunities for tourists to dress in traditional Tibetan clothing, add nothing to the experien-
ce of staying here. Still, it is easy to get away from the tackiness, and mornings and after-
noons are sublime.
The
restaurant
(dishes ¥5 to ¥35, breakfast ¥10), set even higher on the slope and even
more scenically placed, offers excellent Chinese and Tibetan fare including local specialit-
ies such as free-range pork and wild mushrooms.
Pomi
0894 / Elev 2740m
This bustling county capital (Bōmì) has well-stocked shops and several hotels and restaur-
ants, making it a good place to spend the night (though Bakha is better). The main street
now sports wide sidewalks, and re-facaded buildings in a fake but still pleasant Tibetan
style. High forested mountains provide the backdrop.
Pomi is less than an hour's drive from Bakha Gompa.
Sights
Dodung Monastery
BUDDHIST, MONASTERY
This tranquil, 600-year-old Nyingma-sect monastery is set on a pine-clad hill overlooking
the valley, and is home to 56 monks. The main prayer hall includes the footprint of the
seventh Khamtrul Rinpoche, Sangye Tenzin (1909-29). Upstairs are murals depicting the
life of two forms of Gesar, as well as Guru Rinpoche and Tsepame (Amitayus). Also look
