Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
empty and entry-less. Locals refer to them as
dudkhang
(demons' houses) and recite le-
gends connecting them to Gesar of Ling.
A more accessible group of relics (though largely reconstructed), known as the
Shuba
Ancient Fort
(| Xiùbā Qiānnián Gǔbǎo admission ¥90)
, stands on the main highway, 7km east
of Bahel. The fort and the half-ruined towers behind it are said to date from the reign of
Songtsen Gampo (r 629-49). Most people take photos from the parking lot to avoid the
rather steep entrance fee.
Kading Valley Scenic Area
About 27km before Bāyī, at the 4257km mark, is this
forested park
(, Kǎdìng Gōu Fēngjǐng
Qū admission ¥20)
dominated by a thundering 200m-high waterfall. It's a beautiful area for
an hour's break, with lush forests, dark cliff faces and wide views over the Ngang-chu Val-
ley. Note the Chinese have built pathways to the falls, lined them with bamboo, and cre-
ated fresh legends for the many rocks and land formations, something that does not sit
right with Tibetans who consider the area sacred to Palden Lhamo.
Bāyī
0894 / Pop 60,000 / Elev 2990m
Bāyī, a recent Chinese creation close to the small county capital of Nyingtri, is the largest
town along this stretch of the southern route. At a full day's drive from Lhasa (expect to ar-
rive around 5pm or 6pm after a 7am start from Lhasa) it's an obvious choice for an
overnight stay. There are plenty of hotels in town and an abundance of Chinese, Hui
Muslim restaurants and some Tibetan teahouses. Locals tend to be coolly curious rather
than friendly toward foreigners.
Bāyī is surrounded by forested hills and the descent into town offers fine views of the
valley. Ask your guide to show you Bayi Pelri, on the east side of town. This holy moun-
tain is associated with the epic battles of Guru Rinpoche against an array of evil forces.
The kora around the mountain takes a few hours though it is highly unlikely you will be
allowed to join it.
