Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Kham was the home of many early lamas, including the founders of the Drigungpa and
Karmapa schools. In 1070 many Buddhists fled persecution in central Tibet for Kham,
where they set up influential monasteries, later returning to central Tibet to spearhead the
so-called second diffusion of Buddhism in Tibet.
Lhasa's rule over the region has waxed and waned over the centuries. Lhasa first gained
control of Kham thanks to Mongol assistance, but the majority of the region has tradition-
ally enjoyed de facto political independence. Until recently, much of Kham comprised
many small fiefdoms ruled by kings (in Derge, for instance), lamas (Lithang) or hereditary
chieftains (Bathang). Relations with China were mostly restricted to the trade caravans,
which brought in bricks of Chinese tea and left with pastoral products.
Chinese warlords such as Zhao Erfeng and Liu Wenhui swept through the eastern part
of Kham (modern-day western Sìchuān) in the late 19th and early 20th centuries, eventu-
ally setting up the Chinese province of Xīkāng (western Kham). Khampa rebellions oc-
curred frequently, notably in 1918, 1928 and 1932, though not all were against the
Chinese; in 1933 the Khampas tried to shake off Lhasa's nominal rule.
In 1950 Chamdo fell to the People's Liberation Army (PLA) and much of eastern Tibet
came under Chinese control. In 1954 the part of Kham east of the upper Yangzi River was
merged into Sìchuān province and a program of land reforms was introduced, including
the collectivisation of monasteries. When in 1955 the Chinese tried to disarm the Khampas
and settle the nomads, the Kāngdìng Rebellion erupted and fighting spread to Lithang,
Zhōngdiàn and Dàochéng. When the PLA bombed monasteries in Dàochéng and Lithang,
the rebels fled to Chamdo and, later, to India and Nepal, to organise armed resistance from
Mustang in Nepal with CIA assistance.
Today, eastern Tibet remains quite heavily Sinicised along the southern Sìchuān-Tibet
Hwy. Off the main highways, Khampa life remains culturally strong.
Permits
Military presence is strong in eastern Tibet, and this has for a long time been a heavily re-
stricted area for general travel. Since 2008 the whole of the Chamdo prefecture (except
Rawok) and much of Nyingchi prefecture, especially along the border with Arunachel
Pradesh (which the Chinese claim), have been closed to foreigners. Be aware that regions
can temporarily close without notice, especially around the time of Tibetan holidays and
important dates.
