Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
alaya
for details of the five-day approach from Humla and the optional return via the Limi
Valley.
From the Nepali border at Sher, the road makes a long descent to a stream and then fol-
lows the Humla Karnali to the village of Khojarnath, 10km north.
Khojarnath
Elev 3790m
For those travelling north from Nepal, Khojarnath, 21km south of Purang, is the first large
village over the border in Tibet. It boasts the wonderful
Korjak Monastery
(admission
¥30)
, an important monastery of the Sakya order. The blood-red compound, which dates
back to 996, escaped the worst excesses of the Cultural Revolution and the damage sus-
tained has been repaired with financial assistance from German and Italian sponsors.
The eight-pillared Rinchen Zangpo Lhakhang adjoining the main hall is dominated by
the trinity of Chenresig (Avalokiteshvara), Jampelyang (Manjushri) and Chana Dorje
(Vajrapani). To the right of these statues is a small
rangjung
(self-arising) speaking Tara.
The revered 2ft-high statue once warned the monastery's abbot how to prevent flooding of
the local area. During the Cultural Revolution the statue was buried for safekeeping.
The atmospheric main hall is entered via an ancient wooden door with particularly fine
carvings. The hall itself is presided over by a figure of Jampa (Maitreya). To the far left is
a small chamber with paintings from the earliest days of the monastery. Hanging from the
ceiling to the right of the entrance are the stuffed carcasses of a yak, Indian tiger, snow leo-
pard, bear, wolverine and a wolf. The inner kora gives access to a hidden protector chapel.
When you finish inside do a final kora around the compound to see the unusual '
Om mani
padme hum'
mantra painted on the back wall.
Khojarnath is 130km from Darchen or about 107km from Chiu Village on Lake Manas-
arovar and is a worthy detour. The drive south from Lake Manasarovar is one of the most
scenic in Ngari and it's easy to visit as a day trip.
Purang
0897 / Elev 3800m
