Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
The huge figure of Sakyamuni that once stood in the recess, the Jowo Khang, at the
back of the hall has been replaced by one of the caretaker's statues. On the side walls at
the back were once row after row of smaller deities, each perched on its own small shelf.
Lhakhang Marpo BUDDHIST, CHAPEL
( GOOGLE MAP )
Also known as the Red Chapel, this large building was constructed around 1470. The
beautiful murals were repainted around 1630, shortly before the fall of the Guge kingdom.
The original chapel door, with its concentric frames and carvings of bodhisattvas, ele-
phants and the syllables of the 'Om mani padme hum' ('hail to the jewel in the lotus') man-
tra in six panels, has survived and is also worth close inspection.
Inside the chapel, many thin columns support the chapel roof, similar to those of the
neighbouring Lhakhang Karpo. By the main door are images of Chenresig
(Avalokiteshvara), Green Tara and an angry eight-armed White Tara, with Drölma and
Jampelyang (Manjushri) to the right.
The statues that once stood in the chapel were placed towards the centre of the hall, not
around the edges, and although only the bases and damaged fragments remain, the
crowded feel to the space, the intense colours and the eerie silence combine to create a
powerful atmosphere.
Although the wall murals have been damaged by vandalism and water leakage, they re-
main so remarkably brilliant that it's easy to forget they are actually over 350 years old.
On the left wall are the famous murals chronicling the construction of the temple: animals
haul the building's huge timber beams into place as musicians with long trumpets and dan-
cing snow lions celebrate the completion of the temple. Officials stand in attendance (a
Kashmir delegation wears turbans), followed by members of the royal family, the king and
queen (under a parasol), Öpagme (Amitabha) and, finally, a line of chanting monks. The
royal gifts frame the bottom of the scene.
Murals on the far right (northern) wall depict the life of the Buddha, showing him temp-
ted by demons and protected by a naga serpent, among others. On the eastern wall are
eight stylised chörtens, representing the eight events in Buddha's life.
The main deities in the chapel have very ornate toranas , decorated with birds and cro-
codiles, and topped with flying apsaras (angels). At the back of the hall, statues of the 35
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