Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
slide from prominence in the 17th century. The ruins seem to grow organically out of the
hills in tiers and are crowned by a red Summer Palace atop a yellow cockscomb-like out-
crop. It's a photogenically surreal landscape that resembles a giant termites' nest.
The site's early Tantric-inspired murals are of particular interest to students of early
Buddhist art. Even without the magnificent art, it's worth the trip for the views over the
Sutlej Valley and to explore the twisting paths and secret tunnels that worm their way
through the fortress.
The ruins climb up the ridge through three distinct areas. At the bottom of the hill is the
monastic area with the four best-preserved buildings and their murals. From there the trail
to the top climbs through former residential quarters, where monks' cells were tunnelled
into the clay hillside. Finally, the route burrows straight into the hillside through a tunnel
before emerging in the ruins of the palace citadel at the very top of the hill. The vast,
rough-hewn landscape of the Sutlej Valley that spreads out before you is both terrifying
and sublime: you can't take your eyes off its beauty, but you know you wouldn't last a day
alone in it.
Early morning and evening (particularly around 8pm) offer the best light. No photo-
graphy is allowed inside the chapels and guardians will watch you like a hawk. Bring a
strong torch (flashlight), snacks and water, and expect to spend at least half a day explor-
ing the ruins.
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