Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Starting from the hot springs the kora trail climbs to a cremation point, an oval of rocks
covered in old clothes and rags. From this point, an alternative longer kora climbs to the
very top of the ridge, rejoining the trail near the long mani wall (a wall made of mani
stones). The regular kora trail continues past a hole where pilgrims dig 'sour' earth for
medicinal purposes. Further along, there's a 'sweet' earth hole. The trail reaches a mini-
ature version of Mt Kailash's Drölma-la, marked with mani stones and a large collection of
yak horns and skulls.
Where the trail doubles back to enter the Guru Rinpoche (Tirthapuri) Monastery, there is
a rock with a hole in it right below the solitary prayer wheel, which is a handy karma-test-
ing station. Reach into the hole and pull out two stones. If both are white your karma is ex-
cellent; one white and one black means that it's OK; and if both are black you have serious
karma problems. Perhaps another Mt Kailash kora would help?
The monastery
dukhang
(assembly hall) has stone footprints of Guru Rinpoche and his
consort Yeshe Tsogyel to the right of the altar. Outside the monastery a large circle of mani
stones marks the spot where the gods danced in joy when Guru Rinpoche was enshrined at
Tirthapuri. Beside it is a 200m-long mani wall, said to be the result of a demon firing an
arrow at the guru (the guru stopped the arrow's flight and transformed it into this wall).
Finally, the kora drops back down to the river, passing several small shrines and a series of
rocky pinnacles revered as
rangjung,
or self-manifesting chörtens.
Accommodation is limited to a few simple guesthouses. If you want to stay in the area
consider
Moincer
(Mensi), which has a better range of food and accommodation.
Tirthapuri is 9km south of Moincer, which in turn is 65km west of Darchen along the main
paved road to Ali.
