Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
has it that
manas
refers to the mind of the supreme god Brahma, the lake being its outward
manifestation. Accordingly, Indian pilgrims bathe in the waters of the lake and circumam-
bulate its shoreline. Tibetans, who are not so keen on the bathing bit, generally just walk
around it. Legend has it that the mother of the Buddha, Queen Maya, was bathed at
Manasarovar by the gods before giving birth to her son. It is said that some of Mahatma
Gandhi's ashes were sprinkled into the lake.
The Hindi poet Kalidasa once wrote that the waters of Lake Manasarovar are 'like
pearls' and that to drink them erases the 'sins of a hundred lifetimes'. Be warned, however,
that the sins of a hundred lifetimes tend to make their hasty exit by way of the nearest toi-
let. Make sure that you thoroughly purify Manasarovar's sacred waters before you drink
them, however sacrilegious that may sound.
Manasarovar is linked to a smaller lake, Rakshas Tal (known to Tibetans as Lhanag-
tso), by the channel called Ganga-chu. Most Tibetans consider Rakshas Tal to be evil,
home in Hindu minds to the demon king Ravanna, though to the secular eye it's every bit
as beautiful as Manasarovar. The two bodies of water are associated with the conjoined
sun and moon, a powerful symbol of Tantric Buddhism. On rare occasions, water flows
through this channel from Lake Manasarovar to Rakshas Tal; this is said to augur well for
the Tibetan people and most are pleased that water has indeed been flowing between the
two lakes in recent years.
Most groups and individuals base themselves at the picturesque Chiu village, site of the
Chiu Monastery, on the northwestern shore of the lake. There are over a dozen simple,
friendly guesthouses between the monastery and the lake, with four- or five-bed rooms
charged at ¥50 to ¥60 per bed per night, and outdoor pit toilets. There's little to choose
between them except perhaps the availability of food and where the big groups are staying.
The lake area has an admission fee of ¥150 per person (the Mt Kailash fee does not cov-
er this) and 4WD vehicles are no longer permitted in the area. All visitors must leave their
4WD vehicle in Hor Qu. From Hor Qu there are eco-buses to take you to Darchen or the
lake. The buses costs an additional ¥150 (one ticket covers a trip to both Darchen and the
lake).
Sights & Activities
Chiu Monastery
BUDDHIST, MONASTERY
