Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
WHAT TO BRING
Warm clothes are essential, even in summer. The sun is strong and days can be hot, espe-
cially in a 4WD, so do bring something light to wear, ideally with SPF protection. A sleep-
ing bag is recommended to avoid grubby truck-stop bedding. Many of the villages, towns
and hotels in Ngari are dusty, dirty, depressing places so a tent gives you the flexibility to
camp out in some of the most glorious scenery on the planet (assuming the PSB allow
you to camp, of course). A tent is also useful (though not essential) if you are doing the
Mt Kailash kora. A face-mask can be useful to keep out the copious dust.
Supplies are now easy to get in all the settlements of the west but consider bringing
luxuries like instant porridge, muesli (with powdered milk), chocolate, cheese and dehyd-
rated foods from home. A snack supply gives you the flexibility to stop for a picnic lunch
somewhere beautiful (or when the car breaks down).
The only places to change money in Ngari are banks in Ali and, less reliably, Purang -
it's much easier to change US dollars cash than travellers cheques. It's best to bring as
much Renminbi (RMB) as you expect to spend (the chances of it being stolen if you keep
it on you are very remote). There are ATMs in Ali and, less reliably, Zanda.
Dangers & Annoyances
If you've acclimatised for a few days in Lhasa, the gradual rate of gain along the southern
route to Kailash shouldn't pose any serious problems, though the jump from Lhatse
(3950m) to Raka (4925m) or Saga (4610m) involves a potentially dangerous jump in elev-
ation. An overnight at Sakya (4280m) or Rongphu Monastery (4900m) en route will help
your body adjust. If you're coming from Nepal you should be particularly careful as you
won't be well acclimatised; an overnight in Nyalam (3750m) and either old Tingri
(4250m), Baber (4250m) or Lhatse is an excellent idea.
SOUTHERN ROUTES
The upgrading of the 500km section of road from Saga to Hor Qu is now completed,
which means driving times from Lhasa to Mt Kailash has been reduced to as little as three
days. It is advisable that you don't rush, however, but take time to acclimate.
Saga is the last major town along the southern route and a usual overnight stop. It is at
the junction of roads from Lhasa and Nepal, and the following first highlights the routes
