Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
The last main stop on the way to Everest is a wind-raked truck stop called Baber (Báibà in
Chinese), located at kilometre marker 5133, about 12km before the turn-off to Everest. By
the time most travellers arrive from Shigatse or Sakya it's already too late to visit Everest,
so most spend the night here. Baber is also the place to pick up your entry ticket to Qo-
molangma Nature Reserve, which includes Everest Base Camp, Rongphu Monastery and
Cho Oyu Base Camp.
Shegar (Xiégé'ěr in Chinese; also known as New Tingri, but not to be confused with
Tingri) is a small county town located 7km northwest of Baber, easily reached from the
crossroad in the middle of Baber. If you have time it's definitely worth making the short
side trip to Shegar to check out the incredible ruins of Shegar Dzong.
Sights
Shegar Dzong
FORT
Shegar is dominated by its Crystal Fort, one of Tibet's most fantastical. Its crumbling de-
fensive walls snake up the side of an impossibly steep mountain that looms over town; pic-
ture Mt Crumpit in
The Grinch Who Stole Christmas
. Trails allow you to clamber up from
the monastery entrance to the ruined buildings, from where you can see Mt Everest in the
distance. Morning light is best for taking photographs.
Shegar Chöde Monastery
BUDDHIST, MONASTERY
(admission ¥15)
This small Gelugpa institution, built in 1269, clings like a limpet to the side of Shegar
Mountain. The monastery originally followed Nyingma, Sakya, Gelug and Kagyu tradition
until the fifth Dalai Lama enforced the Gelugpa doctrine. A mural by the entrance depicts
the monastery at the height of its power, when it had around 800 monks. These days only
30 remain. A chörten to the right of the main assembly hall is said to enshrine the heart,
eyes and tongue of a former abbot.
