Tsang - Tibet - page 296

Shalu Monastery BUDDHIST, MONASTERY
(, , Xiàlŭ Sì admission ¥40)
It's a treat for the traveller when a sight is both a pleasure to explore and of great artistic
importance. Such is the Shalu Monastery which dates back to the 11th century. The mon-
astery rose to prominence in the 14th century when its abbot, Büton Rinchen Drup,
emerged as the foremost interpreter and compiler of Sanskrit Buddhist texts of the day. (A
suborder, the Büton, formed around him.)
It also became a centre for training in skills such as trance walking and thumo (generat-
ing internal heat to survive in cold weather), feats made famous by the flying monks of Al-
exandra David-Neel's book Magic and Mystery in Tibet.
In the abstract, the design of the monastery represents the paradise of Chenresig
(Avalokiteshvara), a haven from all worldly suffering. In the concrete, Shalu is the only
monastery in Tibet that combines Tibetan and Chinese styles in its design. Much of the
original structure was destroyed by an earthquake in the 14th century and, as this was a
time of Mongol patronage, many Han artisans were employed in the reconstruction. The
green-tiled Chinese style roof, clearly visible as you approach, is one of the monastery's
most easily recognisable features.
What remained of the original 11th century Tibetan-style monastery was largely des-
troyed in the Cultural Revolution, but the Chinese-influenced inner Serkhang has survived
reasonably well. If you enjoy looking at murals, Shalu has some fine ones from the 14th
century that fuse Chinese, Mongol and Newari styles. Bring a powerful torch.
The southern chapel has particularly lovely Newari-style murals depicting the five Dhy-
ani Buddhas. The main inner Serkhang has a black stone statue of Chenresig Kasrapani,
the monastery's holiest relic, as well as a vase from which pilgrims receive a blessing of
sacred water. The northern Gusum Lhakhang , so named for its three doors, has more fine
murals, including one in the left corner depicting the monastery's founder. The inner kora
path is currently blocked.
There are a couple of upper chapels, including the ancient-feeling Yum Lhakhang with
its inner kora and other chapels with fine mandala murals. On the way out you can ask the
ticket sellers to show you the sacred wood block which confers blessings on anyone who
sees it. Monks sell block prints of the now-faded mandala.