Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
prostrating, praying, donation-offering pilgrims doing the rounds almost any time of the
day.
The red-walled Pelkor Chöde was once a compound of 15 monasteries that brought to-
gether three different orders of Tibetan Buddhism - a rare instance of multidenominational
tolerance. Nine of the monasteries were Gelugpa, three were Sakyapa and three belonged
to the obscure Büton suborder whose head monastery was Shalu near Shigatse. A climb up
the nearby Gyantse Dzong will give you a clear bird's-eye view of the original extent of
the complex.
pound, and is where most people begin their explorations. The entrance is decorated with
statues of the Four Guardian Kings, instead of the usual paintings, and a large Wheel of
Life mural. Just by the entrance on the left is a particularly spooky protector chapel, with
masks, armour and murals depicting sky burial in fairly graphic details. Look for the huge
torma
(sculptures made out of tsampa) in a case outside the entrance.
The hall is quite dark inside and if you want a good look at the various murals and
thangkas, it is a good idea to bring a torch (flashlight). The impressive main chapel is loc-
ated to the rear. There is an inner route around the chapel, which is lined with fine but
dusty murals. The towering central image is of Sakyamuni (Sakya Thukpa), who is
flanked by the Past and Future Buddhas.
To the left of the main chapel is the Dorjeling Lhakhang, with a four-headed Nampa
Namse (Vairocana) and the other four Dhyani (Wisdom) Buddhas in dark, ornate wooden
frames. The big thangka wrapped in the yak leather bag is displayed during the Saga Dawa
festival on the 18th day of the fourth Tibetan month. Pilgrims put their heads in a hole un-
derneath a set of ancient scriptures that is older than the monastery itself.
To the right of the main chapel is a lovely Jampa statue with the Rigsum Gonpo trinity
behind it, along with the three kings of Tibet. The inner chörten was built by Prince Rabten
Kunzang Phok. Outside the door is a large tent used during
cham
festivals.
Moving to the upper floor, the first chapel to the left is noted for a three-dimensional
mandala, wall paintings of the Indian-looking
mahasiddhas
(highly accomplished Tantric
practitioners) and lacquered images of key figures in the Sakyapa lineage. Each of the 84
mahasiddhas
is unique and shown contorted in a yogic posture. Unfortunately, the room is
often closed. Other chapels, which are open in the mornings, are dedicated to Jampa
