Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
of town, an old Tibetan quarter and a small
dzong
(fort) to the north (famed as the birth-
place of the mother of the fifth Dalai Lama). In the summer months bird-watchers will
have a field day in the surrounding lake shore and marshlands.
PUBLIC TRANSPORT
At the time of research, foreigners were not allowed to travel on public transport in Tibet.
Basic information is included here in case the situation changes.
Sights
Samding Monastery
BUDDHIST, MONASTERY
(, Sāngdĭng Sì admission ¥20)
Near the shores of Yamdrok-tso, about 10km east of Nangartse, Samding Monastery is
situated on a ridge that separates two smaller lakes that are encircled by the northern and
southern arms of Yamdrok-tso. It's a great detour off the southern Friendship Hwy and a
nice place to overnight, offering good hikes and excellent views of Dumo-tso and the
snowcapped mountains to the south.
Samding is noted for the unusual fact that it is traditionally headed by a female incarnate
lama named Dorje Phagmo (Diamond Sow). When the Mongolian armies invaded Samd-
ing in 1716, Dorje Phagmo changed her nuns into pigs to help them escape. Her current in-
carnation works for the government in Lhasa.
It's possible to visit the main
dukhang
(assembly hall), to the right of the courtyard,
which is dominated by a statue of Sakyamuni (Sakya Thukpa). There are also photos, a
statue and a footprint of the ninth Dorje Phagmo here, plus an eerie protector chapel and
several chapels upstairs. The Sangok Phodrang to the left has a library, a central chörten
and a fine thangka depicting five manifestations of Jampelyang (Manjushri). There are 30
monks in residence.
For dramatic views over the surrounding three lakes of Gongmo-tso, Drumo-tso and
Yamdrok-tso, hike for 45 minutes up to the ridge-top cairns behind the monastery. The
snowcapped Himalayan giants to the south are Kula Kangri (7538m) and Gangkhar
Phuensum (7570m), both bordering Bhutan.
