Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
WORTH A TRIP
LHAMO LA-TSO
ལྷ་མོ་བླ་མཚོ་
拉姆拉措
One of Ü's most important pilgrimage destinations, Lhamo La-tso (Lāmǔ Lācuò) has
been revered for centuries as an oracle lake.
The Dalai Lamas have traditionally made pilgrimages to Lhamo La-tso to seek visions
that appear on its surface. The Tibetan regent journeyed to the lake in 1933 after the
death of the 13th Dalai Lama and had a vision of a monastery in Amdo that led to the dis-
covery of the present Dalai Lama. The lake is considered the home of the protector
Palden Lhamo.
The gateway to Lhamo La-tso is the dramatic, but mostly ruined,
Chökorgye Monas-
tery
(Qióngguǒjié Sì; 4500m). Founded in 1509 by the second Dalai Lama, Gendun Gy-
atso (1476-1542), the monastery served later Dalai Lamas and regents as a staging post
for visits to the lake. On the nearby slope is a mani wall that consecrates a footprint stone
of the second Dalai Lama.
From the monastery, 4WD vehicles can drive 12km (about 40 minutes) up a twisting
mountain road to the shökde,a ritual throne built for the Dalai Lamas just short of the
mountain pass that overlooks Lhamo La-tso. It is now buried under a mound of kathak
(silk scarves). It's a 90-minute walk to get down to the lake (roughly 3.5km in total), which
is encircled by a kora. The lake is a perfect place to camp.
A visit to Lhamo La-tso requires five permits (seven to 15 days to process), which are
only available with the help of a tourist company in Lhasa. The village has a checkpoint
where you'll need to buy a ticket (¥100) for the area.
The nearest accommodation to Lhamo La-tso is
Chökorgye Monastery
(dm ¥50), with
a few basic dorm rooms. You are technically not allowed to stay here so check with your
guide. Camping spots are possible behind the temple walls.
Gyatsa Holy Lake Hotel
(, Jiāchá Shénhú Bīnguǎn d ¥160) is the best of several hotels in
Gyatsa Xian, on the eastern edge of town.
The drive from Tsetang to Chökorgye Monastery via Gyatsa Xian currently takes six
hours, though things should speed up when road construction is completed in 2015. The
most interesting way to reach the lake is to trek from Olkhar or Dzingchi via the Gyelung-
la (three to four days).
