Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
The ground-floor chapel (admission ¥60) is consecrated to the ancient kings of Tibet. A
central buddha image is flanked by Nyentri Tsenpo on the left and Songtsen Gampo on the
right. Other kings and ministers line the side walls. There is another chapel on the upper
floor with an image of Chenresig, similar to the one found in the Potala. There are some
excellent murals by the door that depict, among other things, Nyentri Tsenpo descending
from heaven, Trandruk Monastery, and Guru Rinpoche arriving at the Sheldrak meditation
cave (in the mountains west of Tsetang).
Perhaps the best part is a walk up along the ridge above the building, if only to get some
peace from the syrupy Chinese pop music blasting from the car park below. There are fab-
ulous views from a promontory topped with prayer flags. It's an easy five-minute climb
and no entry fee is needed.
Across the valley from Yumbulagang is an incredibly fertile and verdant crop field
known as zortang , said to be the first cultivated field in Tibet. Farmers who visit the val-
ley will often scoop up a handful of earth to sprinkle on their own fields when they return
home, thereby ensuring a good crop.
Yumbulagang is 6km south of Trandruk Monastery.
Rechung-puk Monastery MONASTERY
( , Rìqióngbù Sì )
A popular pilgrimage site associated with the illustrious Milarepa (1040-1123), the re-
mains of Rechung-puk Monastery are set high on a dramatic escarpment that divides the
two branches of the Yarlung Valley.
Milarepa, founder of the Kagyupa order, is revered by many as Tibet's greatest song-
writer and poet. It was his foremost disciple, Rechungpa (1083-1161), who founded
Rechung-puk as a puk (cave) retreat. Later a monastery was established at the site, eventu-
ally housing up to 1000 monks. This now lies in ruins. For pilgrims, the draw of the mon-
astery is the atmospheric cave of Black Heruka , draped with hundreds of bracelets; the
pilgrims are thumped on the back with Milarepa's walking stick and the stone footprint of
Rechungpa.
Bhairo-puk BUDDHIST, CHAPEL
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