Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Ön Valley
This historic but little-visited valley is a surprisingly easy detour between Samye and
Tsetang. The main Keru Lhakhang here dates back to the first half of the 8th century, and
so represents one of the very first attempts to plant Buddhism in Tibet.
The valley essentially starts at the crossroad ruins of Ngari Dratsang monastery 40km
east of Samye. From here roads lead east to Densatil Monastery (21km), south to Tsetang
(8km) and north to Keru Lhakhang (11km). As you head north up the valley you pass the
turn-off to Tashi Doka Monastery after 6km.
Further north the valley swings to the left, eventually arriving at the Önphu Taktsang, a
Guru Rinpoche cave high on the hillside. There is no road here; the best way to visit is on
the five-day trek from Tashigang on the Lhasa-Rutok road.
As you head back to Tsetang over the modern bridge look for the ruined base of the old
Tangtong Gyelpo iron link bridge of Nyango Druka.
Keru Lhakhang
BUDDHIST, TEMPLE
(, Jírú Lākāng dawn-dusk)
The main chapel of Keru (or Drakmar Keru) is one of Tibet's oldest temples, dating from
the mid-8th century, before Samye Monastery was even a glimmer in Songtsen Gampo's
eye. The main draws are the original statues, possibly the oldest left in Tibet. The temple
was used to store salt during the Cultural Revolution.
The main 3m tall statue in the inner sanctum is of Jowo Sakyamuni and was crafted by
Khotanese artists. Experts trace a Central Asian influence in the image's full face and bar-
relled chest. To the side are a set of 9th-century bodhisattvas and a statue of Tamdrin (Hay-
agriva), considered to be the first such statue in Tibet; pilgrims drag their children here for
a blessing. The massive tree-trunk pillars date back to the chapel's construction. The two
statues facing the Jowo are of Chinese Princess Jincheng and Tibet's 37th king Tride
Tsugtsen (705-755; the father of Trisong Detsen), during whose reign the temple was con-
structed.
Follow the door to the right past a protector chapel to the rebuilt Namla (or Namdung)
Lhakhang, where Atisha is said to have stayed in 1047. The attendant monk will thump
