Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Sights
Ütse
BUDDHIST, TEMPLE
The central building of Samye, the Ütse, comprises a unique synthesis of architectural
styles. The ground and 1st floors were originally Tibetan in style, the 2nd floor was
Chinese and the 3rd floor Khotanese. The corner parapets with green and gold
dorje
designs are also unique. There's a lot to see here, so budget a couple of hours.
The elegant Tibetan script carved on its surface proclaims Buddhism as the state religion
of Tibet by order of King Trisong Detsen. The entryways are flanked by two ancient stone
lions and two elephants.
From here the entrance leads into the first of the ground-floor chambers: the
assembly
hall
. As you enter the hall look for the mural of a white chicken that is said to have once
saved the monastery by waking up its monks during a fire. You pass statues of Tangtong
Gyelpo and the writers Buton Rinchen Drup and Longchen Rabjampa to the left, before a
row of figures greet you straight ahead: the translator Vairocana, Shantarakshita, Guru
Rinpoche, Trisong Detsen and Songtsen Gampo (with an extra head in his turban). The
photo below the Guru Rinpoche statue is of the famous original statue (now destroyed),
which was a likeness of the guru and allegedly had the power of speech.
To the rear of the assembly hall are steps leading into Samye's most revered chapel, the
Jowo Khang
. You enter the inner chapel via three painted doors - an unusual feature.
They symbolise the Three Doors of Liberation: those of emptiness, signlessness and wish-
lessness. A circumambulation of the inner chapel follows at this point (take a torch).
The centrepiece of the inner chapel is a 4m statue of Sakyamuni. Ten bodhisattvas and
two protective deities line the heavy side walls of the chapel, which are decorated with an-
cient murals. Look also for the blackened Tantric mandalas on the ceiling.
As you leave the inner chapel look for a hole in the wooden panelling; steps lead up
from inside the false wall to a secret room with statues of Vairocana, Trisong Detsen and
Guru Rinpoche.
Back in the main assembly hall, on the right are two groups of three statues: the first
group is associated with the Kadampa order (Dromtompa and Atisha); the second group is
