Ü - Tibet - page 209

Lhasa-Nagchu highway near Womatang. Check conditions with locals before attempting
this short cut.
Road to Drigung Til Monastery
Drigung Til Monastery and Tidrum Nunnery, around 120km northeast of Lhasa, are popu-
lar destinations for travellers looking for a short trip near the Tibetan capital. The steep-
sided valleys are only a few hours' drive from the capital but offer a glimpse into rural life
in Tibet. But change is coming to the region: towns are being developed, rivers dammed
and hillsides mined. Despite these intrusions many locals carry on as usual and there are
plenty of opportunities to stop off at remote villages as you monastery-hop your way
through the region.
Gyama Valley
This valley (Jiǎmǎ in Chinese), 60km east of Lhasa, is famed as the birthplace of Tibet's
greatest king, Songtsen Gampo, who lived here until he became king at the age of 15. In
recent years the valley has been targeted for tourism development, with new hotels and
museums aimed mostly at Chinese tourists, and a hefty ¥100 entry fee planned. The sights
aren't unmissable but it's an easy detour if you are headed to Drigung Til.
From the main highway it's 2km south to the Songtsen Gampo Lhakhang (Gyelpo
Gongkar) , a chapel just east of the tarmac road that's dedicated to Songtsen Gampo and
his two wives. The original building dates from the 7th century and resembles a small
Yumbulagang.
From here it's 5km up the valley to the heavily renovated Rabgye Ling Monastery
and, in the compound behind, the huge Kadam-style funeral chörten of Sangye On
(1251-96), a master of the Talung school and founder of the Riwoche Tsuglhakhang in
eastern Tibet. The small monastery boasts some fine black murals and a golden stone man-
tra that is said to have appeared naturally at the moment of Songtsen Gampo's birth. The
chapel is cared for by two nuns from nearby Tekchen Shedrubling Nunnery.
From the monastery, head back down the main road and turn left towards the new
Songtsen Gampo Memorial Hall , a Tibetan-style building recognisable by its red tower.
Just behind this are three Dumburi chörtens and the shrine and natural springs that mark
the birthplace of Songtsen Gampo. Archaeologists have linked the nearby ruins of Gyama