Ü - Tibet - page 198

continues past several caves and a chaktsal gang (prostration point). The twin rock towers
here look like two hands in the namaste greeting and are connected to the male and female
attributes of the meditational deity Demchok (Chakrasamvara). Pilgrims squeeze into the
deep slices of the nearby cliff face as a means of sin detection. They also drink water drip-
ping from cave roofs and some swallow 'holy dirt'.
From here the path curves around the shoreline and passes a group of ancient rock paint-
ings, where pilgrims test their merit by attempting to place a finger in a small hole with
their eyes closed. At the northeastern corner of the hill is the Mani Ringmo, a large mani
wall at the end of which is a chörten with a chakje (handprint) of the third Karmapa.
There are several other great hikes around Tashi Dor. If you have time it's worth walk-
ing to the top of the larger and less visited of the two hills to the east (two hours return).
There are superb views to the northeast of the Tanglha range, which marks the modern
border between Tibet and Qīnghǎi (Amdo).
For the seriously devout there is a pilgrim route that circles the entire lake. It takes
around 18 days to make a full lap, staying at small chapels and hermitages along the way.
Tashi Dor Monastery BUDDHIST, MONASTERY
(, Zhāxīdǎo Sì )
There are two separate monastery buildings. The first is smaller but more atmospheric and
features a statue of Luwang Gyelpo, the king of the naga (snake spirits). Pilgrims test their
sin by lifting the heavy stone of Nyenchen Tanglha, the mountain deity who resides in the
nearby peak of the same name.
The second, main chapel features a central Guru Rinpoche statue and the trinity of
Öpagme, Chenresig and Pema Jigme, known collectively as the Cholong Dusom. Protect-
ors include Nyenchen Tanglha on a horse and the blue-faced Nam-tso, the god of the lake,
who rides a water serpent. Both gods are rooted deep in Bön belief. Several other chapels
and retreats are honeycombed into the surrounding cliffs.