Lhasa - Tibet - page 183

Climb to the Chögyal-puk , the Cave of Songtsen Gampo. The interior chapel has a
central thousand-armed Chenresig (Avalokiteshvara) statue known as Chaktong Chentong.
Pilgrims circle the central rock pillar continually. A small cave and statue of Songtsen
Gampo are in the right-hand corner.
The next chapel surrounds the Lhalung-puk , the cave where the monk Lhalung Pelde
meditated after assassinating the anti-Buddhist King Langdharma in 842. A statue of the
monk wearing his black hat occupies the back room.
The most atmospheric chapel is the Dawa-puk (Moon Cave), where Guru Rinpoche
(the main statue) is said to have meditated for seven years. Look for the rock carvings in
the left corner of the ante-room and the stone footprint of Guru Rinpoche in the inner
room, to the right.
Below the main caves and to the east is the yellow-walled Neten Lhakhang , where the
practice of worshipping the 16 arhats was first introduced. Below here is where Atisha is
said to have taught. A 15-minute walk takes you around the holy mountain of Yerpa Lhari,
topped by prayer flags and encircled by a kora.
There are several caves and retreats higher up the cliff-face and some fine hiking pos-
sibilities in the hills if you have time, including a half-day high kora. A very basic pilgrim
guesthouse and simple food is available.
Getting There & Away
The paved road from Lhasa crosses the prayer-flag-draped 3980m Ngachen-la before turn-
ing into the side valley at Yerpa village and passing two ruined dzongs and a large disused
dam en route to the caves, 10km from the main road. Drak Yerpa makes for a good biking
destination.
A daily pilgrim bus leaves from Barkhor Sq but foreigners currently can't take it.
Drivers often call the site 'Drayab'.
Drölma Lhakhang
This significant although small monastery (Zhuómǎlākāng; admission ¥30; dawn-dusk) is
jam-packed with ancient relics and hidden treasures. It's only 30 minutes' drive southwest
of Lhasa and is worth a stop for those interested in Tibetan Buddhism.