Lhasa - Tibet - page 181

Try to follow other pilgrims up. It's a tough 40-minute climb to the top of the ridge, so
don't try this one unless you're well acclimatised. Here, at two peaks, pilgrims burn juni-
per incense and give offerings of tsampa before heading west down the ridge in the direc-
tion of the monastery, stopping at several other shrines en route.
The low kora ( GOOGLE MAP ) is an easier walk of around 45 minutes. From the car
park the trail heads west up past the new police station and then around the back of the
ridge behind the monastery. The trail winds past several isolated shrines and rocks that are
rubbed for their healing properties or squeezed through as a karmic test. At one point, pil-
grims all peer at a rock through a clenched fist in order to see visions.
A dürtro (sky-burial site) is reached shortly before the high point of the trail. Some pil-
grims undertake a ritual simulated death and rebirth at this point, rolling around on the
ground.
Towards the end of the kora, on the eastern side of the ridge, is Tsongkhapa's hermitage,
a small building with relief images of Atisha, Sakyamuni, Tsepame and Palden Lhamo.
These images are believed to have the power of speech. Above the hermitage is a coloured
rock painting that is reached by a narrow, precipitous path. From the hermitage, the kora
drops down to rejoin the monastery.

Sleeping & Eating

Monastery Guesthouse GUESTHOUSE
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; dm ¥20-45, d without bathroom ¥200)
The simple Monastery Guesthouse at Ganden is occasionally used by trekkers headed to
Samye. The better-quality double rooms are above the well-stocked monastery shop (
MAP GOOGLE MAP ) just down from the car park.

Monastery Restaurant TIBETAN
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; dishes ¥3-8)
The monastery restaurant has low-grade thugpa (Tibetan noodles) and some fried dishes.

Getting There & Away