Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Shartse Tratsang
BUDDHIST, CHAPEL
Shartse Tratsang is one of several renovated
kangtsang
(residences) that offer the oppor-
tunity to meet the local monks away from the tourist trail. In the early afternoon (1.30pm
to 3pm) listen out for debating in the enclosed courtyard to the south. Nearby is the inter-
Nyare Kangtsang
BUDDHIST, CHAPEL
Below the main assembly hall, the rather innocuous-looking Nyare Kangtsang houses a
controversial statue of the deity Dorje Shugden, worship of which has been outlawed by
the Dalai Lama for its alleged dangerous Tantric practices. The statue is in the third chapel,
in the far right corner, with a red face and third eye, wearing a bronze hat and riding a
snow lion.
In 2006 monks stormed the building and smashed the statue, leading to the arrest of two
monks. The statue was replaced in 2007 with the support of the Chinese government,
seemingly more than happy to fan the flames of a sectarian split between local monks and
the Dalai Lama. The stand-off remains tense and around two dozen Chinese soldiers re-
main barracked in the main chapel.
Ganden Kora
PILGRIM CIRCUIT
The Ganden kora is a simply stunning walk and should not be missed. There are superb
views over the braided Kyi-chu Valley along the way and there are usually large numbers
of pilgrims and monks offering prayers, rubbing holy rocks and prostrating themselves
along the path. There are actually two parts to the walk: the high kora and the low kora.
The high kora climbs Angkor Ri south of Ganden and then drops down the ridge to join up
with the lower kora.
from the monastery. After a while the track splits - the left path leads to Hepu village on
the Ganden-Samye trek; the right path zigzags up the ridge to a collection of prayer flags.
