Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Nearby, the smaller Kelsang
Dekyi Palace
was also built by the 13th Dalai Lama, in
1926, as a Tantric temple. The fine murals depict Ganden and Potala; not the buildings but
the Buddhist paradises of the same name.
Tibet Museum
10am
‑
5pm Tue-Sun)
, in the west of town just opposite the Norbulingka, isn't too bad as long
as you can filter out the heavy Communist Party propaganda. A useful audio tour (¥5) is
available with a ¥200 deposit.
The halls start logically with prehistory, highlighting the Neolithic sites around Chamdo
and rock paintings at Rutok and Nam-tso, mixed in with a few oddities (5000-year-old
grain; 4000-year-old musk deer teeth…). The 'Tibet is Inalienable in History' hall is full
of boring seals and Chinese political spin, but it's worth seeking out the Guge kingdom
shields and the 18th-century gold urn and ivory slips (exhibit No 310) that were used by
the Chinese to recognise their version of the Panchen Lama.
The more interesting third hall covers Tibetan script, opera masks, musical instruments,
astrological and divination guides, medical thangkas and statuary. Look for the terrifiying
set of medical instruments and the hat worn by Khampa bards as they recited the Tibetan
epic
Gesar of Ling
. The next hall concentrates on thangkas.
The final hall has a good display of folk handicrafts, ranging from coracle boats to
nomad tents. Photos are allowed.
Activities
Tenzin Blind Massage Centre
MASSAGE
There's no better way to recover from an overland trip than with a massage from this
graduate of the Braille Without Borders organisation (
www.braillewithoutborders.org
).
Choose between hour-long Chinese (¥100 per hour) or Tibetan oil massage (¥150), the
former clothed, the latter naked (don't be self-conscious, they're blind).
Lightness Blind Massage Centre
MASSAGE
