Lhasa - Tibet - page 107

The fragile Tibetan old town shelters the soul of Lhasa, far from Chinese influence. This
walk takes in craft workshops, backstreet chapels and pilgrim paths, passing en route
some of Lhasa's last remaining traditional architecture.
At the first turn of the 1 Barkhor circuit take a left and then quick right, past strips of
dried yak meat and yellow bags of yak butter to the bustling 2 Tromsikhang Market .
After a quick look around the modern market (the original Tibetan-style building was de-
molished in 1997), head north to the main road, Beijing Donglu, and then right to visit the
3 Gyüme Tratsang , Lhasa's Lower Tantric College. It's easy to miss this working temple;
look for an imposing entrance set back from the road.
About 50m further down the road are the deceptively long white walls of the small but
active 4 Meru Sarpa Monastery .
Cross Beijing Donglu, take the alley into the old town and follow the winding branch to
the right, past the yellow walls of the House of Shambhala, which has a nice rooftop res-
taurant if you need a break. As you continue south you'll pass Tibetan craftspeople mak-
ing statues, embroidery, cabinets, prayer wheels and Tibetan banners. At the junction
there's the 5 Eizh a Shop to the left; you want to take a left at this junction but

first look down the alleyway to the right to see the brassware shop and monk's clothing
store.
As you head southeast from the thangka shop, past statue makers and a small market,
curve right to the quiet but interesting yellow-walled 6 Karmasshar T

izhi Th i Thanggka Sh

ple, once the
home of the Karmashar, Lhasa's main oracle. Look for the Karmashar statue in the far
right corner of the back chapel and for the spooky faded icon painted on a pigskin bag in
the main hall, pacified with offerings of tsampa and barley beer. Enter from the right
(southwest) side.
Continue east to a T-junction past outdoor pool tables, furniture shops and blaring
video teahouses. At the T-junction take a left to visit stylish 7 Dropenling , where you can
watch local craftspeople from the 8 Anciient A

r Temple

n Centre across the court-
yard, as they grind up mineral paints for thangka-painting and hammer away at metal
sculptures in a corner workshop. Ask to see the interior workshops and the centre's mu-
seum, which details the monasteries they have restored (everything from Samye to
Ganden).
After loading up with souvenirs, head south towards the 9 Muslim qua

t Art R t Restoratiion C

Muslim quarter, the focus
of Lhasa's 2000-strong Muslim population. During Friday lunchtime weekly prayers and
at dusk the quarter is full of men with wispy beards and skullcaps (non-Muslims are
denied entry to the mosque itself). At other times the square bustles with wheeling-and-