Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
(after the fifth Dalai Lama's death). In other accounts, the Red Palace was conceived by
the fifth Dalai Lama as a funerary chörten and work was well under way at the time of his
death. In any event, the death of the fifth Dalai Lama was not announced until he was put
to rest in the newly completed Red Palace.
There is also some scholarly debate concerning the Potala's name. The most probable
explanation is that it derives from the Tibetan name for Chenresig's 'pure land', or para-
dise, also known as Potala. Given that Songtsen Gampo and the Dalai Lamas are believed
to be reincarnations of Chenresig, this connection is compelling.
Since its construction, the Potala has been the home of each of the successive Dalai La-
mas, although since construction of the Norbulingka summer palace in the late 18th cen-
tury, it served as a winter residence only. It was also the seat of the Tibetan government,
and with chapels, schools, jails and even tombs for the Dalai Lamas, it was virtually a self-
contained world.
The Potala was shelled briefly during the 1959 popular uprising against the Chinese but
the damage was not extensive. The Potala was spared again during the Cultural Revolu-
tion, reportedly at the insistence of Zhou Enlai, the Chinese premier, who is said to have
deployed his own troops to protect it. The Potala was reopened to the public in 1980 and
final touches to the US$4-million renovations were completed in 1995.
Entry Procedures
A quota system is now in place during high season to cope with the huge numbers of do-
mestic tourists trying to visit the Potala during the summer months. From 1 May to 31
at the southwestern gate by noon the day before your intended visit with your passport to
get a reservation slip detailing a time for your visit the next day. Only 2800 people can vis-
it the palace each day.
During the winter months (November to the end of April) you can just buy a ticket on
the spot. Larger groups are officially limited to just one hour inside the Potala, which
really isn't enough time. Individuals who book their own time slot at the western office
generally face no such time restrictions.
The next day head to the main southern entrance 30 minutes before your allotted time
(groups enter via the eastern gate) and then proceed through the rebuilt village of Shöl up
into the palace. Halfway up is the office where you actually buy your ticket (all sights in
this section come under the one entry fee). From the roof you wind down into the
