Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Finish off the visit with a walk around the
Nangkhor
pilgrim path, which encircles the
Jokhang's inner sanctum. If you're not exhausted, you can have a brief look at the
Drölma
Chapel (25)
, featuring Drölma flanked by her green and white manifestations and others
of her 21 manifestations. Pilgrims sometimes pop into the
Guru Rinpoche Chapel (26)
, a
series of three interconnected shrines stuffed with images of Guru Rinpoche, at the back of
the kora.
The Potala
Lhasa's cardinal landmark and home to every Dalai Lama from the fifth to 14th, the
9.30am-3pm before 1 May, 9am-3.30pm after 1 May, interior chapels close 4.30pm)
is one of the
great wonders of world architecture. As has been the case with centuries of pilgrims before
you, the first sight of the fortresslike structure will be a magical moment that you will re-
member for years. It's hard to peel your eyes away from the place.
The Potala is a structure of massive proportions, with over 1000 rooms, and an awe-in-
spiring place to visit, but still many visitors come away slightly disappointed. Unlike the
Jokhang, which hums with vibrant activity, the Potala lies dormant like a huge museum,
and the lifelessness of the highly symbolic building constantly reminds visitors that the
Dalai Lama has been forced to take his government into exile.
History
Marpo Ri, the 130m-high 'Red Hill', which commands a view of all of Lhasa, was the site
of King Songtsen Gampo's palace during the mid-7th century, long before the construction
of the present-day Potala. There is little to indicate what this palace looked like, but it is
clear that royal precedent was a major factor in the fifth Dalai Lama's choice of this site
when he decided to move the seat of his Gelugpa government here from Drepung Monas-
tery.
Work began first on the White Palace (Kharpo Podrang), in 1645. The nine-storey struc-
ture was completed three years later, and in 1649 the fifth Dalai Lama moved from Dre-
pung Monastery to his new residence. However, the circumstances surrounding the con-
struction of the larger Red Palace (Marpo Podrang), are subject to some dispute. It is
agreed that the fifth Dalai Lama died in 1682 and that his death was concealed until the
completion of the Red Palace 12 years later. In some accounts, the work was initiated by
the regent who governed Tibet from 1679 to 1703, and foundations were laid in 1690
