Lhasa - Tibet - page 102

As you begin the circuit, you will pass by several newly restored rooms that feature
Sakyamuni (15, 18) accompanied by his two main disciples, and one featuring the eight
medicine buddhas (17) . The Lamrin Chapel (16) near the southeast corner features Pa-
bonka Rinpoche, Sakyamuni, Tsongkhapa and Atisha (Jowo-je). The chapel in the southw-
est corner is the Chapel of Five Protectors (19) and has some fearsome statues of Tam-
drin (Hayagriva) and other protector deities, attended by deep Tantric drumming in the at-
mospheric anteroom.
Next is the Chapel of the Three Kings (20) , dedicated to Songtsen Gampo, Trisong
Detsen and Tri Ralpachen. Also featured in the room are the statues of Songtsen Gampo's
two wives, various ministers, and such symbols of royalty as the elephant and horse on
either side.
Also worth a look is the Chapel of Songtsen Gampo (21) , the principal Songtsen
Gampo chapel in the Jokhang. It is positioned in the centre of the west wall (directly above
the entry to the ground-floor inner sanctum). The bejewelled king, with a tiny buddha pro-
truding from his turban, is accompanied by his two consorts, his Nepali wife to the left and
his Chinese wife to the right. During the annual Palden Lhamo festival Tibetan families
queue up in front of the royal silver-embossed animal-headed chang (barley beer) contain-
er outside the chapel to make an offering of their first batch of home brew.
Most of the other rooms are hidden behind grills, the main exception being the medita-
tion cell of the Chapel of Songtsen Gampo (22) near the floor's northeastern corner,
which has an incredible carved doorway smeared with decades' worth of yak butter. Mur-
als to the right of the doorway depict the Jokhang. As you walk back to the stairs look at
the unusual row of carved beams that look like half-lion, half-monkey creatures.
Back by the stairs, notice the curved door frames of the Chapel of Guru Rinpoche (23)
and the Chapel of Samvara (24) , showing Samvara with consort, both of which which
date back to the 7th century.
Before you leave the 1st floor by the stairs in the southeast corner, ascend half a floor up
to two statues of the protectress Palden Lhamo , one wrathful ('frog-faced'), the other be-
nign. There's also a photo of the Nechung oracle here. You can sometimes gain access to a
Tantric chapel up on the 2nd floor.
After you've explored the interior of the Jokhang, it's definitely worth spending some
time on the roof , with its stunning views over Barkhor Sq. The orange building on the
north side once held the private quarters of the Dalai Lama.