Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
ance and push-and-shove market economics. This is both the spiritual heart of the Holy
City and the main shopping district for Tibetans.
The Barkhor is the one part of Lhasa that has most resisted the invasions of the modern
world. Pilgrims from Kham, Amdo and further afield step blithely around a prostrating
monk and stop briefly to finger a jewel-encrusted dagger at a street stall; monks sit cross-
legged on the paving stones before their alms bowls muttering mantras, as armed police
march by provocatively anti-clockwise in strict formation. It's an utterly fascinating place
you'll want to come back to time after time.
Barkhor Square
MONUMENT
For your first visit to the Barkhor, enter from Barkhor Sq, a large plaza that was cleared in
1985. The square has been a focus for violent political protest on several occasions, not-
ably in 1998 (when a Dutch tourist was shot in the shoulder) and most recently in 2008.
The square is now home to metal detectors, riot-squad vehicles, fire-extinguisher teams (to
prevent self-immolations) and rooftop surveillance. Despite the stream of tour groups the
atmosphere is one of occupation or siege.
The addition of a tacky Dico's fast-food joint at the west end of the square is ill-con-
sidered, though at least the party authorities resisted the temptation to plunk a Mao statue
in the middle of it all, unlike in almost every other provincial capital.
Close to the entrance to the Jokhang a constant stream of Tibetans follows the Barkhor
circumambulation route in a clockwise direction. Look for the two pot-bellied, stone
sangkang
(incense burners) in front of the Jokhang. There are four altogether, marking the
four extremities of the Barkhor circuit; the other two are at the rear of the Jokhang.
Behind the first two
sangkang
are two joined enclosures. The northern
stele
is inscribed
with the terms of the Sino-Tibetan treaty of 822. The dual-language inscription delimits
the Chinese-Tibetan border and guarantees mutual respect of the borders of the two na-
tions - an irony seemingly lost on the Chinese authorities. The southern enclosure har-
bours the stump of an ancient willow tree - known as the hair of the Jowo, allegedly
planted by Songtsen Gampo's Chinese wife, Princess Wencheng - and two stele, one of
which was erected in 1793 to commemorate victims of a smallpox epidemic. Over the cen-
turies Tibetans have chiselled out chunks of the stele for its proported protective medicinal
properties.
