Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
menus €18/22; noon-3pm & 7-10pm)
On a steep corner near its namesake staircase in Chartres' hilly Old City, this deceptively
large, very local restaurant has a wonderful terrace for summertime dining and is worth the
pre- or post-meal climb for its short but superb menu (foie gras platters, succulent steaks
and classic desserts like crème caramel). Look out for live jazz performances.
SLEEPING
HOTEL
HÔTEL DU BŒUF COURONNÉ
02 37 18 06 06;
www.leboeufcouronne.com
;
15 place Châtelet; s €57-96, d
€67-121; )
The red-curtained entrance lends a vaguely theatrical air to this two-star Logis guesthouse in
the centre of everything. Its summer-time terrace restaurant has cathedral-view dining and
the XV bar mixes great cocktails.
HOTEL
BEST WESTERN LE GRAND MONARQUE
€139-206, f €206; restaurant noon-2pm & 7.30-10pm Tue-Sat, noon-2pm Sun; )
With its teal-blue shutters gracing its 1779 facade, lovely stained-glass ceiling and treasure
trove of period furnishings, old B&W photos and knick-knacks, the refurbished Grand Mon-
arque (with air-con in some rooms) is a historical gem and very central. A host of hydrother-
apy treatments are available at its decadent spa; its elegant restaurant,
Georges
(3-course
menus from €51), has a Michelin star. Staff are charming.
Giverny
Explore
The village's two main draws, impressionist museum the Musée des Impressionnismes
Giverny and, especially, Monet's former home and gardens, the Maison et Jardins de Claude
Monet, are only open from April to October (as are most places to eat, drink and sleep).
Alas, if you're visiting Paris outside these times, there's no reason to make the trip to
Giverny (population 516). If you are here during these months, however, the gardens sur-
rounding Monet's home are magnificent, so factor in plenty of time to enjoy them. From
