Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
'LITTLE BRITTANY'
Trains leave from Gare Montparnasse for the windswept region of Brittany, a couple of
hours' west, but you don't have to leave the capital for authentic Breton crêpes. Due
to the Breton population congregating in this area, the surrounding streets - espe-
cially rue du Montparnasse, 14e, and rue Odessa, 14e, one block west - are lined with
dozens of crêperies.
Unlike the rolled-up crêpes sold on street corners, Breton crêpes are folded
envelope-style at the edges, served flat on a plate and eaten using cutlery - and are
best washed down with bowls of brut Breton cider. Savoury galettesuse blé noir-
(buckwheat flour; sarrasinin Breton), while both galettesand sweet crêpes made
from white flour use salted Breton butter. Traditional toppings include andouille(Bre-
ton sausage), and caramel au beurre salé(salted caramel sauce; salidouin Breton).
Top picks:
€7-10; 11.30am-3pm & 5-11pm Tue-Fri, 11.30am-11pm Sat & Sun; ; Edgar Quinet)
Filled with
dark timber furniture, painted plates and screened by lace curtains, Josselin takes its
name from the eastern Breton village crowned by a 14th-century castle. Locals crowd
around the open kitchen waiting for a table. Delicious galettesinclude Roquefort with
walnuts.
du Montparnasse, 14e; crêpes €3.10-10.90; noon-midnight; ; Edgar Quinet)
Named for the
Breton commune near Brest, Plougastel's decor might be spartan, but its galettesand
crêpes are anything but, with generous toppings including St-Jacques scallops.
Place d'Italie & Chinatown
VIETNAMESE
PHO 14
Factor in a wait at this small, simple restaurant (also known as Pho Banh Cuon 14) - it
doesn't take bookings and is wildly popular with in-the-know locals for its authentic and as-
tonishingly cheap
pho
. The steaming Vietnamese broth is richly flavoured with cinnamon
and incorporates noodles and traditional beef or chicken.
BOULANGERIE, PATISSERIE
LAURENT DUCHÊNE
