The Islands - Paris - page 435

THE HE THE HEAART OF P T OF PARIS ARIS

Notre Dame is the heart of the city, so much so that distances from Paris to
every part of metropolitan France are measured from pla is Notre

Dame, the vast square in front of the cathedral across which Charlemagne (AD
742-814), emperor of the Franks, rides his steed through the tourist crowds.
Indeed, on summer afternoons when the sun floods onto the cathedral's exquis-
itely sculpted front facade, the square is packed with people admiring Notre
Dame, taking 'selfies' with it as backdrop, and generally hanging out - making it
something of a mission to locate the bronze star on the street that marks the ex-
act location of Point Zéro des Routes de France ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) .

place du P e du Parvis No

Music has been a sacred part of Notre Dame's soul since birth and there's no
better day to revel in the cathedral's rousing musical heritage than on Sunday at
a Gregorian or polyphonic Mass (10am and 6.30pm respectively) or a free organ
recital (4.30pm). October to June, the cathedral stages evening concerts; find
the program online at www.musique-sacree-notredamedeparis.fr .

Treasury
In the southeastern transept, the trésor (treasury) contains artwork, liturgical objects and
first-class relics; pay a small fee to enter. Among its religious jewels and gems is the Ste-
Couronne (Holy Crown), purportedly the wreath of thorns placed on Jesus' head before he
was crucified. It is exhibited between 3pm and 4pm on the first Friday of each month, 3pm
to 4pm every Friday during Lent, and 10am to 5pm on Good Friday.
Easier to admire is the treasury's wonderful collection, Les Camées des Papes (Papal
cameos). Sculpted with incredible finesse in shell and framed in silver, the 268-piece collec-
tion depicts every pope in miniature from St Pierre to the present day, ending with Pope
Benoit XVI. Note the different posture, hand gestures and clothes of each pope.

The Mays
Walk past the choir , with its carved wooden stalls and statues representing the Passion of
the Christ, to admire the cathedral's wonderful collection of paintings in its nave side
chapels. From 1449 onwards, city goldsmiths offered to the cathedral each year on 1 May a
tree strung with devotional ribbons and banners to honour the Virgin Mary - to whom Notre
Dame (Our Lady) is dedicated. Fifty years later the goldsmiths' annual gift, known as a