Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
SEAFOOD
L'ÉCAILLER DU BISTROT
noon-2.30pm & 7.30-11pm Tue-Sat; Faidherbe-Chaligny)
Oyster lovers should make a beeline for the famous seafood annexe of
Bistrot Paul Bert
,
a
rustic maritime spot serving a dozen varieties of fresh bivalves, freshly shucked and accom-
panied by a little lemon juice. Other delights are platters of seafood, a half-dozen
oursins
(sea urchins), minute-cooked tuna steak with sesame oil and the
très
extravagant lobster
menu
.
MODERN FRENCH
TABLE
€29, mains €32-49; noon-3pm & 7.45-10.30pm Mon-Fri; Ledru-Rollin)
You have to be confident of word-of-mouth to open a restaurant in Paris simply named
'table', but that's not a problem for acclaimed food critic Bruno Verjus, who runs the open
kitchen in this glossy black restaurant framed by a retractable glass wall. The star dishes on
each day's short menu come from the rotisserie and incorporate artisan-produced ingredi-
ents.
BRASSERIE
LE TRAIN BLEU
Armand, 12e; menu €60-102, mains €27-46;
kitchen 11.30am-3pm & 7-11pm, bar 7.30am-11pm Mon-
Sat, 9am-11pm Sun; ; Gare de Lyon)
In all probability you've never - ever - seen a railway-station restaurant as sumptuous as
this heritage-listed belle époque showpiece. This is a top-end spot to dine on such fare as
foie gras with a confiture of red onions, grapes and hazelnuts, Charolais beef tartare, pre-
pared at your table, and the house-made
baba au rhum
(rum baba).
Otherwise, enjoy a tea or pastry in the regal Big Ben Bar before boarding your train to the
sunny south.