Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
variably involve unexpected flavour combinations (quail/turnip, asparagus/monkfish, ar-
tichoke/white chocolate).
BISTRO
BONES
dishes €4-16, 4-/5-course menus €47/55; kitchen 7-11pm Tue-Sat; Voltaire)
Even if you don't score a first-service (7pm to 7.30pm) reservation for red-hot Australian
chef James Henry's stripped-back new premises, you have a couple of back-up options. The
second service (9.30pm to 10.30pm) is walk-in only. Or you can order Henry's signature
small plates (smoked oyster, beef heart, sea-bass carpaccio, house-cured charcuterie) at the
lively bar.
TRADITIONAL FRENCH
À LA BICHE AU BOIS
7-10.45pm Tue-Sat; 3-course lunch menu €29.80, mains €17-22.50; Gare de Lyon)
Game, especially
la biche,
is the speciality of the convivial 'doe in the woods', but dishes
like foie gras and
coq au vin
also add to the ambience of being out in the countryside, as do
the green awning and potted plants out front. The cheeses and wines are excellent, but top
honours, game aside, go to the sensational
frites
.
SEAFOOD
CLAMATO
7-11pm
Mon-Fri, noon-11pm Sat & Sun; Charonne)
Arrive early: unlike its raved-about sister restaurant and next-door neighbour
Septime
,
Clamato doesn't take reservations and you seriously don't want to miss out on Bertrand
Grébaut and Théo Pourriat's seafood tapas. The menu changes daily but might include mus-
sels with onion confit and saffron, baked razor clams with crushed peanuts and herb butter
or octopus carpaccio with grapefruit pulp.
BISTRO
BISTROT PAUL BERT
noon-2pm & 7.30-11pm Tue-Sat; Faidherbe-Chaligny)
When food writers list Paris' best bistros, one of the names that consistently pops up is Paul
Bert. The timeless vintage decor and perfectly executed classic dishes like
steak-frites
and
hazelnut-cream Paris-Brest pastry merit booking ahead. Look out for its siblings
L'Écailler
du Bistrot
(seafood) and
Le 6 Paul Bert
(small plates) in the same street.
