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and slides, jungle gyms, sandboxes) will absolutely thrill families. Open-air concerts
are staged throughout summer, making it a first-rate picnic destination.
Lac Daumesnil ( GOOGLE MAP ; Porte Dorée) Like something out of a Renoir painting,
the largest lake in the Bois de Vincennes is a popular destination for walks and row-
boat excursions in warmer months (from €12 per half-hour). A Buddhist temple is loc-
ated nearby.
EATING
Bastille dining tends to swing between a highly lauded group of up-and-com-
ing chefs, who run the hip new neobistros that have reinspired Parisian cook-
ing, and the die-hard traditionalists, who rarely venture beyond the much-
loved standards of French cuisine.
DELICATESSEN
CHEZALINE
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 85 rue de la Roquette, 11e; dishes €6.50-9;
11am-5.30pm Mon-Fri;
Voltaire)
A former horse-meat butcher's shop ( chevaline, hence the spin on the name) is now a fab-
ulous deli creating seasonally changing baguettes filled with ingredients like ham and
house-made pesto. Other delicacies include salads and homemade terrines. There's a handful
of seats (and plenty of parks nearby). Prepare to queue.
WINE BAR
LE SIFFLEUR DE BALLONS
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.lesiffleurdeballons.net ; 34 rue de Citeaux, 12e; lunch menu €14, mains
€7-16; 10.30am-3pm & 5.30-11pm Tue-Fri, 10.30am-11pm Sat; Faidherbe-Chaligny)
With Tom Waits on the stereo and cacti atop the register, this contemporary wine bar has a
dash of California in its soul. The wines, though, are all French - and all natural - and
paired with a quality selection of simple but delicious offerings: tartines, soups, lentil salad
with truffle oil, cheeses and Iberian charcuterie plates.
Look out for the weekly tastings with winemakers. No reservations, so don't waltz in too
late.
MARKET
MARCHÉ BASTILLE
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