Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
There is no lovelier spot to relax in a vintage armchair over a cup of organic tea or freshly
juiced carrot-and-apple cocktail after a hectic morning at Belleville market. Secondhand
books - to be borrowed, exchanged or bought - line one wall and the twinset of pavement-
terrace tables outside sit on magnificently graffitied rue Dénoyez. Breakfast and weekend
brunch.
WINE BAR
CHAPEAU MELON
Very much a Belleville 'in-the-know' address, this stylish wine cellar - a spellbinding maze
of bottles - is the best place around for a glass of natural French wine accompanied by a
perfectly ripened cheese, mixed
charcuterie
platter or small plate of delicious home cook-
ing. Reservations recommended.
CAFE, BAR
AUX DEUX AMIS
01 58 30 38 13; 45 rue Oberkampf, 11e;
8am-2am Tue-Sat;
Oberkampf)
From the well-worn, tiled floor to the day's menu scrawled in marker on the vintage mirror
behind the bar (two-/three-course lunch menu €18/22), Aux Deux Amis is the quintessential
Parisian neighbourhood bar. It's perfect for a coffee any time and come dusk it serves tapas-
style dishes. Friday brings the house speciality -
tartare de cheval
(hand-chopped horsemeat
seasoned with a secret mix of herbs).
BAR
LA CARAVANE
11am-2am;
;
Goncourt)
This funky, animated bar is a little jewel tucked away between République and Oberkampf;
look for the tiny campervan above the pavement. The bar is surrounded by colourful kitsch
furnishings, and the people around it and behind it are amiable and relaxed.
BAR
CAFÉ CHARBON
9am-2am;
;
Par-
mentier)
With its post-industrial belle époque ambience, the Charbon was the first of the hip cafes
and bars to catch on in Ménilmontant. It's always crowded and worth heading to for the dis-
tressed decor with high ceilings, chandeliers and perched DJ booth.
