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01 40 26 41 24;
www.noglu.fr
; 16 Passage des Panoramas, 2e; mains
€16-20, menu €24;
noon-2.30pm Mon-Sat, 7.30-10.30pm Tue-Sat;
;
Richelieu-Drouot or
Grands Boulevards)
Gluten-free kitchens are hard to find in France, but that's only one of the reasons that Noglu
is such a jewel - this chic address builds on French tradition (
boeuf bourguignon
) while
simultaneously drawing on newer culinary trends from across the Atlantic to create some
devilishly good pastries, vegetarian plates and superb pizzas and salads. Don't skip the
chocolate-passion tart. Reserve.
MODERN FRENCH
LA MAUVAISE RÉPUTATION
2-/3-course menu lunch €18/22, dinner €28/35;
noon-2.30pm Mon-Fri, 7.30-10.30pm Tue-Sat;
Sentier)
The name alone - Bad Reputation (yep, also a Georges Brassens album) - immediately
makes you want to poke your nose in and see what's happening behind that bright-orange
canopy and oyster-grey façade just footsteps from busy rue Montorgueil. Great bistro cook-
ing and warm, engaging service in a catchy designer space with coloured spots on the wall
and fresh flowers on each table is the answer.
BISTRO
L'ARDOISE
€38; noon-2.30pm Mon-Sat, 7.30-10.30pm Mon-Sun; Concorde or Tuileries)
This is a lovely little bistro with no menu as such (
ardoise
means 'blackboard', which is all
there is), but who cares? The food -
fricassée
of corn-fed chicken with morels, pork cheeks
in ginger, hare in black pepper, prepared dexterously by chef Pierre Jay (ex-Tour d'Argent)
- is superb.
LYONNAIS
AUX LYONNAIS
€32, mains €26-33; noon-2.30pm Tue-Fri, 7.30-10.30pm Tue-Sat; Richelieu-Drouot)
This is where top French chef Alain Ducasse and his followers 'slum' it. The venue is an
art-nouveau masterpiece that feels more real than movie set; the food is perfectly restruc-
tured Lyonnais classics, such as quenelles (creamed fish or meat shaped like a dumpling)
and blood sausage.
TRADITIONAL FRENCH
LE GRAND COLBERT
