Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
kitchen noon-2.30pm & 7.30-10.30pm;
Poissonière or Bonne Nouvelle)
exposed-brick decor is a smart setting for genius creations like trout tartare with cauliflower
and tomato and citrus mousse, and quince and lime cheesecake for dessert. It doesn't take re-
servations, but if it's full, Richer posts a list of recommended local addresses outside. Fant-
astic value.
TRADITIONAL FRENCH
FLOQUIFIL
11am-midnight Mon-Fri, from 6.30pm Sat; Grands Boulevards)
If you were to envision the ultimate backstreet Parisian wine bar, it would probably look a
lot like Floquifil: table-strewn terrace, dark timber furniture, aquamarine-painted walls and
bottles galore. But while the by-the-glass wines are superb, you're missing out if you don't
dine here (on rosemary-roasted lamb with ratatouille or at the very least a chacuterie plat-
ter).
BISTRO
BISTROT LA BRUYÈRE
dinner menus €28/35; noon-2.30pm & 7.30-10.30pm Mon-Sat; St-Georges)
Young-gun chef Loïc Buisson is the wunderkind behind winning dishes like tomato
gazpacho, pig's trotter pancakes with apple chips, tuna with fried leeks, and beef from celeb-
rated butcher Hugo Desnoyer at this unassuming but brilliant little bistro. One to watch.
MODERN FRENCH
CAILLEBOTTE
5-course dinner menus €35/49; noon-2.30pm & 7.30-10.30pm Mon-Fri; Notre Dame de Lorette)
Although named for impressionist painter Gustave Caillebotte, the clattering interior - slate
tiles, blond wood and tightly packed marble-topped tables - means this isn't the place for a
romantic meal. But it is the place for amazing flavour combinations like scallops with
creamy fennel and coffee purée and sea urchin foam, by the same team as
Le Pantruche
.
MODERN FRENCH
L'OFFICE
01 47 70 67 31; 3 rue Richer, 9e; 2-/3-course lunch menus €22/27, dinner
menus €28/34;
noon-2.30pm & 7.30-10.30pm Mon-Fri;
Poissonière or Bonne Nouvelle)