Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
by German cigar-maker,
Gerhard Dannemann.
Blessed by optimum
conditions for growing
and processing tobacco,
the Dannemann factory
quickly became one of
the region's finest cigar
producers. The region still
produces Dannemann cigars,
but the original factory has
now been converted into a
cultural center, known as the
Centro Cultural Dannemann .
A small exhibit of old
machinery tells the story
of the early factory days.
On weekdays, it is possible
to watch the factory workers
rolling cigars.
Cobblestoned streets lined with colorful houses in Cachoeira
São Félix 5
@ from Cachoeira.
sugar and tobacco produced
in the Recôncavo region. The
town's privileged position as
a commercial center is reflec-
ted in its imposing colonial
architecture. However, with
the creation of road access
to Salvador, Cachoeira lost
its key position and its port
gradually faded away.
In the old city center, many
of the city's churches and
wealthy merchants' houses
are still standing, although in
a dilapidated condition.
The city has, however,
begun to renovate and
preserve its historic
center. As a cultural
hub of the Recôncavo
region, Cachoeira
celebrates the Festa da
Boa Morte, one of the
most important features
of the Candomblé
religion. Today, the city
is as much celebrated
for its robust wood-sculpting
tradition, as its production of
the best tobacco in Brazil.
Regarded as the twin of
Cachoeira, São Félix lies
just across the Rio Paraguaçu,
on a hillside overlooking the
river. The railway bridge
connecting the two towns
was commissioned by Dom
Pedro II, and built by British
engineers in 1895. Cars, trains,
and foot traffic all share the
rickety railway bridge.
Several times a day,
São Félix comes to a
standstill as freight
trains roll right through
the town center.
Larger in size, though
not as impressive as
Cachoeira, São Félix
used to earn a living
in its own right as
a producer of fine
charutos (cigars).
The heart of this industry
was the Dannemann cigar
factory, founded in 1873
P Centro Cultural
Dannemann
Av Salvador Pinto 29. Tel (075)
3425 2208. # 8am-5pm Tue-Sat,
1-5pm Sun.
Coronas cigar
box, São Félix
Market scene in São Félix, with
a vendor selling fruit
FESTA DA BOA MORTE
Celebrated from August 13 to 15, the Festa da Boa Morte
(Festival of the Good Death) is one of the most important
events of Candomblé (see p35) , a blend of African spirituality
and Catholicism. The ceremonies are held by members of the
Sisterhood of the Good Death, a religious and self-help
organization composed entirely of women of African descent.
The festival honors both the iyás (female spirits of the dead),
and the Assumption of the Virgin Mary. A Catholic mass is
followed by a large procession through the historic streets of
Cachoeira. The women come dressed in multilayered lace
skirts and blouses, white turbans, and traditional accessories
in honor of various orixás (deities). At the head of the
procession, they carry a statue of the Virgin Mary. At the
end, the women prepare an all-white meal of rice, fish,
potatoes, onions, and other white-colored foods. Samba de
Roda, a dance based on the African circle dances, marks the
end of the ceremonies. Women take turns dancing in the
circle to the pounding rhythm of the drums. Onlookers may
also be called on to dance.
Members of the Sisterhood of
the Good Death in festive regalia
 
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