Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Festivals in Tuscany
Many Tuscan festivals celebrate battles and historical
events that took place centuries ago; others have their
origins in medieval tournaments. Yet they are not
merely a pastiche of history, put on for the benefit of
tourists. They are living festivals, mounted with an
amazing degree of skill and commitment to authenticity
and perfection. This can be seen in such details as the
embroidery on the costumes worn by the participants
and in the exhilarating displays of horsemanship, jousting
or archery. Here is a selection of Tuscany's best.
WESTERN TUSCANY
The last Sunday in June is the
occasion for the Gioco del
Ponte, or Game of the Bridge,
in Pisa (see pp156-7) . This
battle, in Renaissance
costume, takes place between
the Pisans who live north of
the river Arno and those who
live south. Arranged into teams,
they attempt to push a seven-
tonne carriage over the historic
Ponte di Mezzo (literally, the
Middle Bridge), which divides
the city. On the actual day,
the river's banks are crowded
with thousands of onlookers.
This event probably has its
roots in pre-Renaissance times,
when there was no regular
army and all citizens had to
be trained and ready for war.
Some of the participants
wear suits of antique armour
which date from the 15th
and 16th centuries, and
their shields bear the
colours of the city's
different districts. This
regalia is kept in
the Museo
Nazionale di San
Matteo (see p157)
when it is
not in use.
Pisa's Game of the Bridge
NORTHERN TUSCANY
Carnevale (Carnival) in
Viareggio (see p175) , on
Shrove Tuesday and the four
Sundays leading to it, is famous
for its imaginative floats. These
carry elaborate satirical models
of politicians and other public
figures. After courting contro-
versy in recent years, however,
this celebration is now more
of a family event, but there is
still an abundance of pointed
visual jokes that can be app-
reciated by those in the know.
The designers of the floats
enjoy much flattery and
prestige, and their
creations remain on view
all year. As elsewhere,
the occasion is one
of merrymaking,
and it combines
ancient pagan
rituals and
Christian
values.
Football in Costume at fever pitch
FLORENCE
Calcio in Costume, or Football
in Costume (a festival held
over three days in June),
is a combination of football
and rugby. Each of the four
medieval quarters of the city
(Santo Spirito, Santa Croce,
San Giovanni and Santa Maria
Novella) fields a team of 27
men. The games are usually
held in Piazza Santa Croce, and
always attract a lively crowd.
There is fierce rivalry among
the teams, and play can be
quite violent. The final prize
is a live cow. Before the
game, the players and other
characters in sumptuous
14th-century dress parade
through the city.
The final often takes place
on 24 June, the feast of John
the Baptist, the patron saint
of the city. These events are
celebrated by a firework
display, best seen from
the north bank of the Arno,
between Ponte Vecchio
and Ponte alle Grazie,
or from Fiesole.
One of the spectacular floats from the Viareggio Carnival
 
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