RESTAURANTS, CAFES AND BARS - Florence and Tuscany - page 264

OLTRARNO 4 Leoni

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Via dei Vellutini 1r, 50125 Tel [phone] Map 5 B4
This restaurant is conveniently situated five minutes from the city centre, near the Ponte Vecchio. In warm weather,
tables at this revamped trattoria are set out on the pretty Piazza della Passera, but the ambience is pleasant inside too.
Though no longer the simple, traditional place it once was, the service is always friendly and the setting charming.
OLTRARNO Ristorante Ricchi

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Piazza Santo Spirito 8r, 50125 Tel [phone] Map 3 B2
With elegant, modern decor and a lovely terrace, this small fish restaurant is situated on one of Florence's most
beautiful squares. Oriental influences are evident in dishes such as pasta with shrimps and mint, sword fish with
sichuan pepper and salt cod in a spice crust. There's a limited choice for carnivores too.
OLTRARNO San Jacopo

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Borgo San Jacopo 62r, 50125 Tel [phone] Map 5 C4
The San Jacopo enjoys a fabulous setting on the south bank of the Arno. Ask for one of the coveted tables on the
tiny terrace. The chic and breezy atmosphere suits the unpretentious but beautifully served food very well. Fish fans
should try brodetto (fish soup), an Adriatic speciality.
OLTRARNO Nove

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Piazza degli Scarlatti 1r, 50125 Tel [phone] Map 5 B4
Trendy and bustling, Nove has a sleek, modern look that wouldn't be out of place in London or New York. The imag-
inative food, however, is firmly rooted in Italian traditions and is generally very good. The menu, featuring both fish
and meat, changes regularly and there is an interesting wine list.
OLTRARNO Onice

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Viale Michelangelo 78, 50125 Tel [phone] Map 4 F3
This restaurant, with a Michelin star, is part of the smart Villa La Vedetta hotel that overlooks the city from near Piaz-
zale Michelangelo. The ambience is elegant and contemporary, while the food is superb and prepared with minimum
fuss. Menu changes with the season.
FURTHER AFIELD Da Burde

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Via Pistoiese 6r, 50145 Tel [phone]
It's worth trekking 6 km (4 miles) from the city centre to this family-run trattoria, to soak up an air of a time gone by.
All the classics of traditional Florentine cooking are to be found on the menu - fettunta (Tuscan garlic bread), ribollita
(Tuscan bread soup), trippa alla fiorentina (tripe) and spezzatino (meat stew).
FURTHER AFIELD Targa

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Lungarno C Colombo 7, 50136 Tel [phone]
Background jazz and a warm wood-and-glass interior, softened by lots of greenery, make for a relaxed setting in this
bistro, set 2 km (1 mile) from the city centre on the Arno. The food is understated and based on seasonal local tradi-
tions; crêpes with artichokes and taleggio (cheese), rack of lamb with asparagus and broad beans. Fantastic wine list.
FURTHER AFIELD Fuor d'Acqua

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Via Pisana 37r, 50143 Tel [phone]
Many locals say that this is the best fish restaurant in Florence - and one of the most expensive. The fish is very fresh
indeed, coming straight off the boats in Versilia and cooked with the minimum of fuss. Some crustaceans are served
raw. Try the black tagliolini (pasta) with calamari and sage.

WESTERN TUSCANY

ARTIMINO da Delfina

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Via della Chiesa 1, 59015 Tel [phone] Road map C2
Surrounded by vineyards and some interesting historic villas, this delightful restaurant is located in a walled medieval
village just 22 km (14 miles) from Florence. Owner Carlo Cioni renews the culinary traditions of his mother, Delfina.
The rabbit galantine and maccheroni (pasta) with duck sauce are simply exquisite.
CASCIANA TERME Il Merlo

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Piazza Minati 5, 56034 Tel [phone] Road map C3
Bean soup, mushrooms, chestnuts and wild boar are the main ingredients for winter dishes in this friendly little
eatery. In the summer, fish comes to the fore: anchovies, seafood salad, linguine with squid ink and fish soup. There
is a good selection of local cheeses, and a discerning wine list, with a few contributions from smaller producers.
CASTAGNETO CARDUCCI Nettare degli Dei

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Salita San Lorenzo, 57022 Tel [phone] Road map C3
This small eatery on two levels offers dishes based on fish from the morning's catch. A classic that usually features
is crudités di mare (raw seafood dressed with lemon, excellent local oil, herbs and pepper). Try the gnocchetti with
scorpionfish sauce. Interesting wine list and desserts.