Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
A rare sight today - farming with oxen near Pienza
Even the working day of many Tuscans
echoes that of their ancestors centuries
ago. For people who work out in the
fields, the day begins at sunrise, as
early as 4:30am in summer.
Farm and vineyard labourers
will have completed a day's
work by noon, when they
retire indoors to eat and rest.
Until the 1950s, most
Tuscans were familiar with
this pattern of life: the region
still relied on a feudal system,
mezzadria
, whereby peas-
ants working on the land
without payment took a share of the
crops as their reward. Today, agricul-
tural produce remains an important
ingredient in the Tuscan economy, but
only 20 per cent of Tuscans now work
in agriculture. Many farming families
left the land in favour of a stable
income and a shorter working
day as factory hands. Town
dwellers have a much easier
way of life, but the old
rhythms prevail: the
siesta
period is still observed, so
that almost everything
closes for a few hours in the
afternoon. Wise travellers
soon learn that it pays to
follow the same pattern,
rising early to join the café
throng, before heading out to study
ancient frescoes in peace. In the middle
of Florence there are several lively
early morning markets where you can
buy fresh, local produce
(see p287)
.
Bargain hunters and food-loving
Tuscans frequent them, but by 2pm
the stallholders will have packed up.
Churches open at 8am, and, except
on Sunday when mass is held, there
will be few other people to disturb your
thoughts if you stray into one. Today,
very few Tuscans go regularly to
church and Sunday is spent visiting
friends, watching sport or enjoying
A cheese stall in Florence
Clerics in conversation, Colle di Val d'Elsa
