Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Fortezza Vecchia, Livorno harbour
Capraia
7
g
The Fortezza Nuova, sur-
rounded by a moat, dates
to 1590. Its interior has been
converted to a public park.
local struggles between the
imperial Ghibellines and the
papal Guelphs
(see p46)
.
Local people still refer to
the town as San Miniato
al
Tedesco
(of the German).
Pro
Loco, The Port (0586 90 51 38).
This tiny mountainous island
appeals mainly to keen bird
watchers and divers who go
to explore the rocky coastline.
Nearby Gorgona, a penal
colony, can also be visited by
booking in advance. Contact
the tourist information office
in Livorno.
from Livorno.
g
300.
n
P
Piazza XX Settembre
Lying south of the Fortezza
Nuova, the piazza is renowned
for its bustling “American
Market”. The market's name
derives from the large amounts
of American army surplus
sold here after World War II.
A US army base, Camp
Darby, still operates to the
north of Livorno.
San Miniato
8
Road map
C2.
Z
English Cemetery
Via Giuseppe Verdi 63.
Tel
0586
83 97 72.
*
3,852.
@
7
The 19th-century memorials
to British and American
emigrés, long untended, are
considerably overgrown.
Among them is the grave of
Tobias Smollett (1721-71), the
misanthropic Scottish novelist.
He claimed to live in Italy for
health reasons, and, predic-
tably, constantly complained
about the place.
#
by appt.
n
Piazza del Popolo 1 (0571 427
45).
Tue, 1st & 2nd Sun of
each month.
(
San Miniato suffers from its
proximity to the vast industrial
conurbation of the Arno
valley. Straddling the crest of
one of the region's highest
hills, it manages, however, to
remain somewhat aloof. There
are a number of fine historic
buildings, including the 13th-
century Rocca (castle) built for
Frederick II (1194-1250), the
German Holy Roman Emperor.
The town played a major
part in Frederick's Italian
military campaigns. He
dreamed of rebuilding the
ancient Roman empire that lay
divided between papal and
Imperial authority. To this end
he conquered large areas of
Italy. His battles fuelled fierce
Façade of Duomo in San Miniato
R
Duomo
Piazza del Duomo.
daily.
Only the red-brick façade
survives from the original 12th-
century building. The majolica
plates set within it show
evidence of trade with Spain
or North Africa. They seem to
represent the North Star and
the constellations of Ursus
Major and Minor: key reference
points for early navigators.
The campanile, the Torre di
Matilda, is named in honour
of the great Countess Matilda
(see p45)
, who was born in
Livorno in 1046.
#
E
Museo Civico
Via San Jacopo Acquaviva.
Tel
0586
80 80 01.
#
10am-1pm, 4-7pm
Tue-Sun.
&
The Museo Civico houses
temporary exhibitions and
several paintings by Giovanni
Fattori (1825-1908), an artist
of the
Macchiaioli
School
(see p123)
, whose work
was similar to that of the
French Impressionists.
¢
Easter, 1 May.
