Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
AN AVIATION LEGEND: TEMPELHOF AIRPORT
In Berlin history, Tempelhof Airport is a site of legend. British architect Norman Foster
even called it 'the mother of all airports'. It was here in 1909 that aviation pioneer Or-
ville Wright ran his first flight experiments, managing to keep his homemade flying
machine in the air for a full minute. The first Zeppelin landed the same year and in
1926 Lufthansa's first scheduled flight left here for Zurich. The Nazis held massive ral-
lies on the airfield and enlarged the smallish terminal into a massive semicircular
compound that measures 1.23km from one end to the other. Designed by Ernst Sage-
biel, it was constructed in only two years and is still one of the world's largest freest-
anding buildings. Despite its monumentalism, Sagebiel managed to inject some
pleasing design features, especially in the grand art-deco-style departure hall.
After the war, the US Armed Forces took over the airport and expanded its facilities,
installing a power plant, bowling alley and basketball court. In 1948-49 the airport
saw its finest hours during the Berlin Airlift.( Click here ) After Tegel Airport opened in
1975, passenger volume declined, and flight operations stopped in 2008 after much
brouhaha and (initially) against the wishes of many Berliners. That sentiment
changed dramatically when the airfield opened as a public park ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ;
030-2801 8162; www.tempelhoferfreiheit.de ; enter via Oderstrasse, Tempelhofer Damm or Columbi-
adamm; sunrise to sunset; Paradestrasse, Boddinstrasse, Leinestrasse) , a wonderfully noncom-
mercial, creative open-sky space where cyclists, bladers and kitesurfers whisk along
the tarmac. Fun zones include the Luftgarten beer garden near Columbiadamm, bar-
becue areas, dog parks, an artsy minigolf course, art installations, abandoned aero-
planes and an urban gardening project.
In fact, this vast, untamed urban playground has by now become so intensely be-
loved by Berliners that plans by the city to build thousands of apartments, offices and
a central library along its perimeter were thwarted in a referendum held in May 2014.
The airport building hosts special events such as music festivals and trade fairs like
the Bread & Butter fashion show. Two-hour tours ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ;
030-200 037
441; www.tempelhoferfreiheit.de ; Platz der Luftbrücke; tours adult/concession €13/9;
4pm Mon-Fri, 1pm
Platz der Luftbrücke) of both airport and airfield are available.
Fri, 11am & 2pm Sat & Sun;
EATING
Kreuzberg has become one of Berlin's most exciting foodie districts, with
some of the best eating done in comfy neighbourhood restos, ethnic eateries
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