THE NETHERLANDS - Europe by Eurail 2015: Touring Europe by Train - page 415

Distance: 12 miles (19 km)
The old center of Haarlem is not so large as to require transportation to its points
of interest, but the city bus system is available to assist if necessary. You will want
to visit the Great Market and see the town hall and the ChurchofSaintBavo, then
proceed to the world-famous Frans Hals Museum and from there to the Teylers
Museum before returning to the railway station.
The Great Market is actually the central square of Haarlem, in which the nobles
of Holland staged their tournaments during the Middle Ages. Today, it is tradition-
ally the social gathering place of the townspeople. A part of the town hall was
once a hunting club. The Church of Saint Bavo houses a pipe organ that was once
played by the 11-year-old Mozart.
On foot, head south from the station, crossing the Nieuwe Gracht (New Canal),
and proceed to the city's central square, using the tower of the great church as
your point of destination. As you enter the square, the church stands on your left,
the town hall on your right. This square has been described as the most beautiful
in the Netherlands. A pause here in one of the many restaurants, outdoor cafes, or
ice-cream shops is recommended.
Time permitting, before leaving the Great Market, you may wish to visit the Meat
Hall and the Fish Hall. No longer functioning by their descriptive names, both
structures are now employed in the exhibition of modern visual art. The 17th-cen-
tury architect Lieven de Key designed the Meat Hall, which is said to be one of the
finest examples of Renaissance architecture in the Netherlands.
From the western end of the church, follow the street running south from the
square to the Frans Hals Museum, just before the canal. This street has sever-
al names—Warmoesstraat, Schagchelstraat, and Groot Heiligland—appearing in
that order as you move to the museum through one of the most heady 17th-cen-
tury atmospheres to be found anywhere in Europe.
The Frans Hals Museum is a moving experience. Hours: 1000-1700 Tues-
day-Friday, 1100-1800 Saturday and Sunday, adults €13. Visit
www.franshalsmuseum.nl . Perhaps nowhere else can you find such a perfect com-
bination of setting and display. The building is gorgeous; its inner courtyard is a
magnificent example of 17th-century architecture. The versatility of the museum's
collections is also unusual. In one section, the peak achievements of Haarlem's
17th-century painters may be viewed; in another wing of the museum, visitors may
view an exhibition of modern Dutch art.
A left turn at the canal below the museum takes you to the Turf Markt on the
Spaarne River, where another left turn takes you winding along the river to Hol-