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that stands today probably owes more to the imagination of Francis I of France
than any other of its monarchs. In 1528 he had the remains of prior centuries
torn down and rebuilt; he then filled the new structure with sumptuous jewels,
weapons, statues, and pictures—among them the Mona Lisa (which graced the
bathroom)—as a suitable reclining palace for his mistress, the Duchess
d'Etampes. In 1539, with the place set in order, he received his great rival, Emperor
Charles V, in the new digs.
The fortunes of Fontainebleau slumped under the reign of Louis XIV. He was
giving more attention to his new project at Versailles and his dalliances with Ma-
dame de Maintenon; but his successors, Louis XV and Louis XVI, were faithful
to the palace as an autumn residence. Slowly, Versailles became the “in place”
with French courtiers, and only the old retainers showed up to probe the forest
surrounding the château for wild game. Fortunately, Fontainebleau survived the
French Revolution much better than did Versailles and other royal residences
closer to Paris. (Suburban living had its advantages even then.)
Fontainebleau has probably bedded more queens, court favorites, and royal
mistresses than other palaces in France. (Versailles had its headliners, like Pom-
padour and Du Barry, but Fontainebleau was more discreet.) Under the new man-
agement of Francis I, the Duchess d'Etampes was granted a chamber that later
became known as the “King's Staircase” when Louis XV needed freer access to
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